Great Pen Stores in Europe
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It was trying to find the location of pen stores in Europe that was the start of this pen site, now many years ago. I would be traveling, arriving in a new city, trying to find a phone book or other magazine that may list out pen stores. Then, the task was to know when you were actually within blocks of a great store.
So I started a list, kept notes of the store, tried to talk to the owners and others have written me with their "finds" through their own travels.
I think the store is just part of the whole pen experience, and I have always enjoyed my travels, primarily in France and Italy where a new pen, and the use of that pen in keeping a travel journal, is part of the enjoyment of the trip.
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Great Pen Stores:
When you come across a Great Pen Store please e-Mail me with your review, the name and address, and any hints on finding the store. I will include it on a the next update. |
(Stores are listed alpabetically by City Name. Use the index to the right.)
The Hague and Amsterdam, The Netherlands
P.W. Akkerman,
Passage 15
2511 AB
The Hague,
The Netherlands
Tel: +31.70.346.2264
Fax:+31.70.363.3551
e-mail: info@pw-akkerman.nl
website: www.pw-akkerman.nl
P.W. Akkerman has received positive reviews from a variety of pen enthusiasts as well as a recent write-up in PenWorld. The store, founded in 1910, is located behind the house of Parliament. Not only does the store sell an extensive inventory of pens, but they have also offered their own line. The staff are very helpful. Paul Rutte is the Store Manager. The store is a must for any visitor as it includes pens and a collection of some 300+ ink bottles. One of them a sealed, blown-glass bottle of French Juhlia ink that dates from 1900s.
P.W. Akkerman
Kalverstraat 149
1012XB Amsterdam,
The Netherlands
020-6023 1649
Gasser from Pennsylvania notes this store has a great collection of pens including some Lamy pens not usually seen in North America. They have a "house pen", a small bottle filling pen from Lamy with a 14K nib. They also carry a wooden barrel plastic pen by Lamy designed to be a child's first pen. J. Norstedy from Blacksburg Virginia has also written in about this store. The staff are very helpful. H. Schoeyer from the Netherlands says this is one of the best stores in Europe.
GW Pen and Paper Shop
Located outside of the main downtain area in a mall. Gelderlandplein 115, NL1082 LV Amsterdam, The Netherlands Shop started some four years ago by its owner (G. Olie). He is committed to pens and intends to build the selection particularly in the limited editions. He carries a wide selection and has a particular interest in Omas pens. Recently changed name from Pens Plus to GW Pen and Paper Shop. It is in a one-floor Mall/indoor shopping center several blocks from Novotel Amsterdam and the RAW metro train stop.
De Roos
Binneweg,
2101 JM
Heemstede, Netherlands
Tel: 31.23.528.9177
Fax: 31.23.529.2483
A substantial, stylish pen store located in Heemstede run by Rinco and Margaret Roos. The store is easy to located because of the copy of a Montblanc Meisterstuck pen outside the store. You can find all the known lines as well as an extensive selection of limited edition pens.
Athens, Greece
Evangelidis Pen Shop
3 Kollokotroni & 7 Voulis
Athens, Greece
10562
Tel: +301-322-9071
Fax: +301-324-5841
Thanks Stavros Kavouras for the update on the relocation of this great pen store in Greece. As when you visit Athens, this is a must on your list of things to see. Located in downtown Athens, close to the Greek Parliament buildings. The store is wal to wall pen displays. On the right hand side, the wall is dedicated to limited edition pens. They have a great collection in stock.
Mr. Evangelidis, the owner, is very literate about pens and he speaks several languages. He has a fantastic pen collection himselve. You will find him to be a kind person who enjoyes telling stories behind each and every one of his pens. He also sells some vintage pens. When in Athens, make sure you drop by.
Ranios
6 Tsakalof
Kolonaki, Athens, Greece
Tel: +301-3643500
and
Ranios
125 Karaiskou St
Pireas
(near Athens)
Tel: +301-4225536
These stores are not only good pen stores to visist, but, as with many stores in Europe, they also sell fine cigars, leather goods, jewerly and gifts. The selection of fountain pens, however, is solid and they will be found with reasonable prices. In addition to the normal lines, the stores carries a small selection of Limited Edition pens. Worth a stop. (Thanks: S. Kavouras)
Barcelona, Spain
Central de l'Estilografica
Provença St., 247
08008 Barcelona;
Tel: +34 932.151.230
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Barcelona, the Paris of Spain, is a wonderful city and well worth a visit. Great train connections from France and an easy drive.
The store is no longer located in the Barri Gothic area of Barcelona, but rather in the commercial district, on Provença Street (between passeig de Gracia and Rambla Catalunya streets).
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Great service. David helping me buy a great Omas Pen. |
You'll be greeted with a entrance way with display windows on both side. Packed with all the great pen lines. Once inside there are a number of display cases, and more displays along the walls of pens. I found the staff are very friendly and willing to show you any pen you may desire.
I have been to the store twice, on my most recent visit (June 2002) David helped me out with an Omas pen. Again I found the staff to be very helpful. The friends that were travelling with us all agreed, this is a Great Pen Store. |
Bologna, Italy
Bremen, Germany
Dorrbecker Schreibkultur
Katharinenklosterhof
D-28195 Bremen, Germany
Tel: +49 421 3232 000
Here is a great pen store in Bremen, Germany. Ada Ma found it to be one of the best pen buying experiences she has had! The staff are very very nice, they speak English, and if you meet the owner you'll find him open to share with you his great love of fountain pens. The collection exceeds 3,000. The shop has been handed down over the generations. It dates back to 1861. Go in and enjoy. You can try out the pens as long as you want. The courteous staff will gladly show you their stock of Limited Edition pens produced in the last ten years. The store also runs a good web shop: Scription
The store even produced its own Limited Edition pen in 1998. There were only 88 of the pens produced. The pens, with celluloid from the 1930's, were produced by Visconti. Thanks Ada Ma.
I have recently heard from Axel Huebener, the owner, and they have added a permanent exhibition of Limited Editions in a special show room. Over 200 pens on display.
Breisgau, Germany
Josef Liehl Nachf
GmbH, Oberlinden 25
7800 Freiburg, Breisgau, Germany
Thanks to C. Cross for his notes on this great pen store. He notes outstanding service. The staff helped him with his purchase of a Pelikan fountain pen, encouraging him to try different models and nibs until he had the right pen for him. He also received an immediate response and got his VAT refund. Even to this day, that particular pen out-writes newer pens--because of the time the staff took with him to make sure he got the best pen for him.
Brighton, England
Pen To Paper
4 Sydney Street
Brighton, BN1 4E3, England.
Very friendly staff, quite knowledgeable and happy to let you dip and try to your heart's content. The store stocks pens by Lamy, Cross, Rotring and Pelikan as well a good range of inks and high quality French writing paper and Moleskin note books. It is a very cosy little store. They seem to keep a good range of Moleskine notebooks in stock, too. Fully stocked with Herbin bottled and cartridges. (Thanks P Venton)
Webster's Pen Shop
10 Brighton Square
The Lanes
Brighton, BN1 1HD.
The store is hard to locate if you're not familiar with the South Lanes area of the city, being nestled in a pretty little square accessible only via several small alleyways, but it's worth the effort. The staff are happy to give directions over the phone if you get lost. Quite a good-sized store for the location, very bright and modern in feel with lots of sunlight - great for seeing a prospective ink's true colours. A very broad range of pens on offer, all attractively displayed. The staff were friendly, and a young trainee was being shown the ropes while I was there. He seemed keen and well informed. Well worth a visit for both the shop and the location. (Thanks P Venton)
Websters Pen Shop
Bluewater Shopping Centre.
A remarkably good stock for this high street retailed. (Thanks, D. Osgood)
Cardiff, Wales
The Pen and Paper Stationery Company Ltd
13-17 Royal Arcade
Cardiff CF10 1AE
Tel: +44 02920 373738
Fax: +44 02920 373038
Website
I am told this is a rather good pen shop that is located in the Royal Arcade, right in the centre of the city. They stock a decent range of fountain pens and inks, including the Diamine line. The staff are very helpful and friendly. So, now I have family from Cardiff, here is another reasons to visit Cardiff. (Thanks G. Strong)
Dublin, Ireland
The Pen Corner
12 College Green
Dublin. Tel: 679-3641
Dublin's fountain pen specialist since 1927 and the Pen Corner sells all types of writing instruments. Calligraphic supplies, artistically designed writing cards and stationary, and Irish art postcards. (Thanks G. Harris)
Düsseldorf, Germany
Hennig,
Jan-Wellem-Platz 3,
Schadowstrasse 26
40212 Düsseldorf, Germany
Tel: 0211-137050
The store is very well stocked, the staff very professional and courteous. They treat fine pens as they should -- no banging of pens on counter tops. Staff speak English. You can shop to you drop as the store takes credit cards. A must when you visit Düsseldorf. (Thanks: Guenther Krueger)
Edinburgh, Scotland
Edinburgh
Pen Shop
194 Rose Street
Edinburgh
Tel: 0131 226 3624
The shop is a family run business backed up with a good dose of experience. I am told the shop is one of six in the UK that is recommended by Parker to repair their vintage pens. Ask for Jim or Janet. They are willing to answer questions and advise on the pen that will meet your needs. Open Monday to Friday 1-:00 - 5:00 pm and Saturdays 9:30 - 5:00.
Jenner's of Princes Street
Edinburgh, Scotland.
An independent department store, they specialize in Montblanc, Pelikan, Shaeffer and Parker pens. The atmosphere is relaxed, and the assistants offer good advice. And, what every pen shopper looks for while we try out every pen in the store, their patience is endless. (I. Bryson]
Esslingen, Germany
Germany
Esslingen (near Stuttgart)
Lesny Feder und Papier
Hafenmarkt 5
73728 Esslingen
Tel.0721 577 44 36
Fax 0721 577 44 38
Esslingen is located near Stuttgart, Germany. The store carries major lines that include Aurora, Caran d'Ache, Cartier, Cleo, Cross, Dunhill, Graf von Faber-Castell, Lalex, Lamy, Montblanc, Montegrappa, Omas, Pelikan. Also, to go with the whole writing experince it carries writing paper, a good range of inks including wine ink El Casco, Wünsch.
I am told this is a great pen shop with many hard to find things downstairs.Owner, Martin Lesny, worked some years at Harrods of London, so english is no problem. He collects Lamy pens. The store is open Mondays to Fridays 9-20, and on Saturdays from 9-18
[Thanks Dr.D. Barmeyer]
Florence, Italy
Casa Della Stilografica;
Via Cavour, 43;
Firenze, Italy
Well no need to mention the need to visit Florence. Despite how tired my feet are, I have always found the energy to visit this store. The shop has been in existence, at the same location, for some 54 years. IT has become a meeting point for all the pen collectors of Florence. It has been run by the Sacchetti family for three generations. Great collectible and antique pens, but pricey by US standards. (Thanks: Giovanni Abrate). Oct 2004 - Marco of Casa Della Stilografica writes to note their new web site: www.stilografica.it
Pineider
Piazza della Signoria
Firenze, Italy
Pineider is not a pen store, but it is one of those stores that pen folks like to go into. The company, in business since 1774, has had customers that range from Napoleon Bonaporte, Charles Dickens, Henry Ford right up to Whitney Houston and Elizabeth Taylor. The store is all about personal stationary, stamps, accessories for the office and they do typically have a small counter of pens -- these are only two of the wonderful stores you will find in major cities in Italy. Go into the store, take a deep breath of the wonder aroma of leather books etc.
Frankfurt, Germany
Gottfried Theissinger
Steinweg 7 (Passage)
D-60313 Frankfurt/Main, Germany.
J. Waltersson notes this as a very elegant shop, at the end of the pedestrian shopping street the Zeil, at the Hauptwache underground station/square. The shop carries all contemporary pens as well as stationary and papers.
La Plume; Ziel 85; D-60000 Frankfurt/Main, Germany
J. Waltersson also provides this address as a small shop crammed with pens--both cheap and expensive. It is located directly on the pedestrian shopping street in an arcade. Don't give up, as it can be difficult to spot the first time.
Geneva, Switzerland
Papeterie
Brachard
10, rue de corraterie
CH-1204 Geneva, Switzerland
Tel: +4122
817 05 55
Fax: +4122 817 05 69
Located in the heart of the shopping district of Geneva. The famous Papeterie Brachard dates from 1839. The place is a "floor to ceiling" pen store. Ever been to a city and forget to write down the address of a store? Well thanks to J Waltersson of Sweden for sending in the name and address of this pen store.
Gent, Belgium
Timmermans
Kortemunt, 5 - B-9000
Gent, Belgium
Tel: +32 (0) 9-223.32.57
Fax: +32 (0) 9-223.82.71
e-mail
The company was founded in 1845 and started more as a publisher to become one of Belgium's pen-specialists. The shop, situated in the historic heart of Gent, is a building called "The Half Moon" and dates from 1794. The interior is a typical Interbellum interior and was restored in 1996. Here you will find the little pen for the first steps in the world of writing up to the limited editions for the demanding collector. Our pen-room gives the client a space to choose and test in comfort. More than 3,000 writing instruments are on display. Here's a nice touch... to complete your choice there are fine papers, inks or pen pouches.
Caron
Veldstraat 456
9000 Gent, Belgium
Tel: +32 (0) 9 225 35 44
Carrying cigars, leather goods and a very good selection of pens and writing inks, this is worth a visit when in the city of Gent. [Thanks M Badmington].
The Hague, The Netherlands
P.W.
Akkerman
'De Passage 15
'The Hague, The Netherlands
Here is a store that offers real service. More than just sell you a pen, the store will help you when either the pen needs to be replaced or requires adjustments. M L.M. van Harten reports exceptional service when a Parker Duofold turned out not to be the right pen. The store provided an exchange for a pen that was best for the customer. Good going P.W. Akkerman.
Paul Rutte is the Store manager, he has worked there for over 20 years. If you can read Dutch, then check out the web site that is currently being developed. It looks good!
Hamburg, Germany
Bethge
ABC-Straße 9
Hamburg
Bethge has four retail stores in Germany (Düsseldorf, München and two stores in Hamburg). As well they have a web site for worldwide shopping. Thanks to Ralf Heckmann for his recommendation on this company that has been in business since 1977. I have to get there as I see they even have their own line of inks!
Johannesburg, South Africa
The Pen Friend
Admiral's Court
Rosebank, Johannesburg, South Africa
I am told this is an extremely well-run store by John Berry and staff. The store carries a wide range of all makes including limited editions and collector's items. John and his staff offer expert guidance and a very friendly manner. [Thanks, K. Bolon] ]
Lausanne, Switzerland
Karamer Krieg
Rue Centrale
10 CH 1003 Lausanne
Switzerland
website: www.kramerkrieg.ch (Focus is on ordering office/art supplies, site in French)
email:
magasin@kramerkrieg.ch
The website has a focus on ordering of office or art supplies, but the store is a nice shop to visit with a seperated room for great pens. Many limited edition pens including some older models. Your will find lines like Caran d'Ache, Montblanc, Cartier, Delta and the like at this store. Some expensive and beautiful desk asessoires. (Thanks: D. Barmeyer)
Lausanne L'ecriture
Rue L.-A. Curtat 1
Lausanne, Switzerland
This store is located near the cathedral and stocks pens and gifts. Few top end pends or limited editions but a selection of basic pens and supplies. Closed on Mondays. (Thanks: D Barmeyer)
London, England
Green and Stone
Kennington.
This is an art supply store but they carry a good range of pens.
Harrods
The department store in London has a vast pen department that is well worth a visit. The staff will help you along with the purchase of the right pen for you. When you start to get the shakes, they will simply ask: "Do you want blue or black ink with the pen?" That seems to conclude the decision making process and the next thing you know you are leaving with your pen. I bought my Waterman Opera pen there, telling my wife that it would probably satisfy my pen needs forever! Oh yeah!
Penfriend (Burlington) Ltd;
34 Burlington Arcade
Piccadily, London W1V 9AD
Tel/Fax: 0171--499-6337.
Blush House Arcade
located off The Strand
I remember buying a set of Mont Blanc pens here on one of my first trips to London. The store was great then, and I regularly hear positive comments about Penfriend right up to today.
Comments consistently note how well stocked the store remains. They also carry a good selection of nibs and is one of those rare stores where they will actually match the nib to your writing needs. Dave Osgoode notes they will even grind a nib for you if you need that done! The store has knowledgeable staff willing to let you try any pen before you try. My kind of place! Great service department. They stock a range of pen parts.
The Pen Shop
Liverpool Street Station
London EC2 2AA
Tel: 020 7628 4416 - Fax: 020 7247 3482
London is one of those cities with a good selection of pen shops. One, the Pen Shop has a small branch in the Liverpool Street Station. Although it is a small shop, they have a reasonable range of pens in stock. The customer service is excellent. They will check around with other stores for stock items. Being located in a train station it is easy to find and connected with London's famous "Tube". (Thanks: J Hards)
Selfridges
400 Oxford Street
London, W1A 1AB
Tel: (0207) 318 3822
When visiting London you will sure to be on Oxford Street at one point. This will place you in the right spot to visit Selfridges, a major department store that has one of the largest pen departments in the United Kingdom. I have found the staff to be friendly and informative. They will help you with the necessary VAT paper work if you are a tourist. You will find all the major brands in magnificent fixtures. Thanks to M. Stein, based in London, for his prompt to include Selfridges on the Page. Selfridges is a must for all pen aficionado's visiting London.
Lucca, Italy
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Casa della Penna
Located on via Roma -- one of the main shopping streets to walk -- this is a great pen store. Large pen cases line the walls, there is, as you would expect in Italy, a very good selection of Omas fountain pens, as well as all the other major brands. They have a reasonable selection of ink as well. In addition to pens there is an assortment of desk assesories to choose from. |
On my September 2004 trip I had made a commitment this would be a trip where I would not buy a new pen. Too many other expenses in the year. I had been very firm on this, however, I did find myself breaking down as I looked at the rich assortment. A couple of bottles of ink where a cheap fix for the moment! The staff are friendly and they speak some English.
Lyon, France
Lyon Stylo
26 Victor Hugo
Lyon, France
Lyon is a city not to be missed. On our recent visit the the city we found the old quarter is very charming. The cathedrals are impressive. The shopping area very nice with a number of pen stores. Be mindful that on Monday mornings a number of stores will be closed. Lyon Stylo has an excellent selection of pens. Although English is limited, the owner is very helpful. [R.E. Morgan]
Kent, England
Websters
Blue Water Branch
Kent England
The staff there are exceptional, and they carry an excellent range of stock. They will even offer an exchange if your are purchasing the pen as a gift. This is a store that goes all the way in letter you try our various pens to ensure you have the right one. (Thanks P Venton)
Madrid, Spain
Sacristan
Calle mayor 27
Madrid, Spain
A very elegant store with a large stock of old and new pens. Reasonable prices. N. Limor
Manchester, England
The Penshop
South King Street
and
Trafford Centre
The stores carry a large selection of pens and have staff that are both knowledgeable and friendly. The Penshop also has a web site. (Thanks: D. Smith)
Maastricht, Netherlands
Mevri
Mevri Kantoorvakhandel BV
Grote Staat 6
Maastricht, Netherlands
The store, located in the centre of Maastricht, offers great services and a large collection of regular and limited edition pens. I have listed the web site so you can see the size of the pen collection, however, the site at the current times takes the viewer no where. It does provide an e-mail link. [Thanks: H. Geelen]
Mexico City, Mexico
Miguel Angel Distribucion, S.A. de C.V.
with two locations:
Santa Catarina 207
Altavist San Angel Inn
Mexico D.F. 01060
Tel: (525)
616-2248, FAX: (525) 616-5526
5 de Mayo 29H. Col. Centro;
Mexico D.F. 0600; Tel: (525-510-1312, Fax: (525)521-8174
An excellent pen store with more than 20 years of experience. They carry more than 16 different brands of pens that include: Dupont, Waterman, Omas. They also handle some limited edition pens. The store offers a repair service. Personal service is reported to be superior! (Thanks: J. Ortega)
Milano, Italy
Ercolessi
Corso Magenta 25
Milano, Italy
Tel: 02 86452444
I have always enjoyed visiting Milan. The city includes a number of pen stores. This one is a favorite and also a long standing establishment in Italy.
The company is run by the family. The company was started by Edgardo Erocolessi, the E.E. in the name of the company (E.E. Ercolessi) is for his wife, Elvira. The first store opened back around 1921 and there were two stores (the one on Corso Vittoria Emanuele was right downtown near the Cathedral That store is now closed with the store on Corso Magenta still operating.
Between the wars, Ercolessi also manufactured pens. They have recently produced a very collectable, a very expensive Limited Edition Pen. It is quite a splendid instrument. The personnel is always friendly and knowledgeable. Signora Ercolessi is very kind and goes at lenght in explaining the various products. Really a pen lover herself .(Thanks: Giovanni Abrate, Borris)
In June 2000 I paid another visit to this store. The scene in the store would make many North American pen stores shudder with envy. After viewing an extensive display of pens in the front window, I entered the store. There were customers standing 3 and 4 deep along the counters that run on three sides of the store. The staff of 5 or 6 were busy going at full speed. Behind the counters are larger wood cabinets that hold an extensive stock of pens. Its best to pick up one of the store's catalogues to help you unless you have very good Italian.
The staff bring pens for the customers to view either in large presentation boxes from the cabinets, or via the stock elevator that brings pens up from the basement. I tried the Aurora Primavera in green and sea blue but found the pens a bit light for my hand. Also, the store only had the pens in medium and fine, and I need at least a broad nib.
Munich, Germany
Nice, France
Maison du Stylo has closed.
Nimes, France
Papeterie Baille; 40
Boulevard Victor Hugo
Nimes, France
Tel: 66-67-41.25
What a town. Don't miss the opportunity to visit this town on your next visit to France.
And, what a find this store is! It is located in a 19th-century building, and been in operation in the same building since 1834. The display windows are filled with all the great lines of pens. When you walk inside you will be greeted by friendly staff wearing white lab-style coats. The store keeps the beautiful leather-covered portfolios freshly polished--the aroma is great. There is some English spoken but the staff are great at helping you out. If you don't see what you want, ask. I was amazed as the endless number of pens that kept being brought out from the back storage area. I bought one of my Waterman Patrician fountain pens here. They were very helpful and also assisted with the VAT De-Tax forms and that will save you 13% off the purchase price is you are leaving the country. Make sure if your are visiting the country that you don't forget that option!
Nottingham, England
Pen Sense Ltd.
5 King Street
Nottingham, England NG1 2BH
Tel/Fax: Nottingham 472724
Website: www.pensense.co.uk
A key aspect of a great pen store is the attitude of the staff. Joseph Green notes that Amarjeet Panesar the Managing Director of Pen Sense makes that store special. A great guy that shows his personal collection of vintage pens.
Oslo, Norway
Oxford, England
Pens Plus
69-70 High Street
Oxford OX1 4BD
Tel: 01865 241174 | Fax: 01865 726845 | E-Mail: sales@pensplus.co.uk
Operating for over 40 years under various names and ownership I can remember picking up some Parker Penman ink here many years ago when I was in Oxford. I hear the current owners provide great service and have the patience to help you out in the process of matching the right pen for you. Some say this ranks as one of the best stores in England. The store is open Monday-Saturday 9.00am-5.30pm. (Thanks: Thad Parsons)
Scriptum
3, Turl Street
Oxford, England 0X1 3Dq
Tel: 01865 200042
This is not descripted as a 'Pen Shop', as Scriptum specializes in fine quality paper and note cards. They sell dip pens and a fantastic selection of inks. The selection of papers includes fine Italian made note books, and superb hand made paper that comes from one of the last European paper mills. They also stock a great range of seals and sealing wax. Turl Street is well worth a visit in itself; a lovely cobbled street containing small artisan shops including a Whisky specialist, a hand made shoe shop, a fine gentlemen's barber and a high quality gentlemen's outfitter. Thanks. T. Whitworth,
Palermo, Italy
Cartoleria Perna
Via Roma, 68/70
Palermo, Italy
Tel: 091.61.70.400
Another store at:
Via Sperlinga, 14
Salvatore Chiazzese had previously sent me an e-mail about a number of good pen stores in Palermo. In June 2000, I visited a number of stores and enjoyed visiting Cartoleria Perna.
I met Antonio Perna who, with his father Settimo and his sister Rossana, operate Cartoleria Perna -- the store has been in business for over 40 years. The store, a cartoleria, has a full range of stationary and related items. While there is a selection of pens on display in the front of the store, make sure you visit the "pen room" located near the back of the stores to see the full selection. A wide range of pens and inks is available.
Antonio showed me a range of pens and he confirmed my findings from my trip so far that pen stores in Italy basically stock for the Italian market and that means fountain pens with fine and medium nibs. Some lines are available with a broad nib and Antonio was kind enough to call a distributor and an Aurora with a broad nib could be available the next day.
Going to Palermo? It is a beautiful city full of life and excitement, and Cartoleria Perna is a great store to visit.
In September 2003 I returned to Palermo, it is a city that you can't visit only once. I never realized the location of our hotel until we were there. It was right next to the pen store. Rossana helped me with a pen purchase. Still remains a good store with a solid selection of pens and inks.
Ask for help. There are lots of pens that you will not see in the window and counters.
De Magistri
Via Gagini, 59 and 39
Palermo, Italy
It is not too often that I leave a pen store saying "good riddens" but my experience at De Magistri's was frustrating. In June 2000 I visited a number of pen stores in Palermo, at number 39 you enter one of the most established stationary-type stores in Palermo. There is a moderate display case of pens. The real experience, however, is two doors down the street at number 59. At that location is a beautiful store that carries all the great lines of pens. You can only look in the window, a sign directs you to number 39 for access.
At number 39, however, I made the mistake of asking for a pen with an oblique or stub nib... of course there are none, and with that there was no need to take me to number 59. No matter how I asked, with my poor Italian, and all the hand language I could use, I could not get access to the store. Of well, it left me to make my purchase at another store.
If you can get access to number 59, from what I could see through the windows, it is a smartly furnished store that carries all the great lines of pens.
In September 2003 I tried again and this time had no problem getting into the "high-end pen" section. Limited section. Heavy on the Mont Blanc line.
Cartoleria Crisci
Via Roma, 296-298
Palermo, Italy
Tel: 0941.321.694
Fax: 091.321.985
In June 2000 I stopped by Cartoleria Crisci, they have an impressive pen room with a good selection of Italian and European pens. There is not much I could think of that was not on display. The staff were friendly and offer lots assistance in showing pens.
El Cortes Ingles
Plaza Catalunya
This department store on the Plaza Catalunya has a good selection of of the big name brands as well as pen cases and desk asseccories.
Paris, France
Art du Bureau
rue des Francs Bourgeois, 47; Paris
We always stay in this area of Paris, and the Art due Bureau is located in the now very trendy Marais district of Paris. Located in the 3rd arrondissement, not far from the Picasso Museum, the store offers an excellent selection of Rotring, Lamy and Jean-Piere Lepine pens as well as usual standards. Thanks to R. Gutherie for sending in the review. I had lost the address to the store, I can attest to Guthrie's comments that the staff are most helpful. They speak some English and accept all credit cards.
Galleries Lafayette
40, Bld Haussmann
Galleries
Lafayette has a stunning pen counter on the main floor and another on the 6th floor. Representatives from the major pen companies work the counters so they know all about the various lines. As you would expect in Paris, very little English spoken. De-Tax forms available.
Boutiques Hotel du Ville,
rue Rivoli, opposite Hotel du Ville
This department store has a large pen department on the first floor up. They carries all major lines including a number of limited edition pens.
Mora
7rue de Tournon
Paris 75006
(metro: Mabillion or Odeon)
Tel: (33 )01.43.54.99.19
Fax: (33) 01.43.54.17.80
When in Paris, visist Mora, the store carries the best brands and rare limited edition pens. You'll find André Mora always has an interesting selection of recent pens, pre-owned (aka "occasions") and limited edition pens. He also does repairs. (Thanks: Alain Dbjay)
Nearby is an upscale stationary store, good selection of notebooks, including leatherbound ones.:
Grim Art
59 Rue St Andre de Arts
75006 Paris
www.grim-art.com
Stylo Honore
1 rue Marche St. Honore
Paris
Good selection of various makes of pens. The owner makes his own ink called Cocktail. The ink comes in great colours, although they are expensive. (Thanks: R.E. Morgan)
Pointe Plume;
21 rue Quentin Bauchart
Paris
Located just off the Champs de Elysee, the store has a great selection of the top end of all major brands with an emphasis on the limited editions. The sales staff speak English and they are very helpful. Here you will see some of the limited editions that we would normally only read about. (Thanks: R.E. Morgan). Lots of good comments about this store. They will spend lots of time with you talking and showing you great pens.
Stylos Marbeuf
40 rue Marbuef
Paris
This shop is located just off the Champs de Elysee. Great selection of most European brands with helpful and friendly staff. (Merci: M. Claxton, K. Hill). Look around as even if you don't need another pen, hard to believe, they have great journals and we always need things to write in.
Stylos Wagram
13 Avenue de Wagram
75017 Paris
(metro Charles de Gaulle Étoile)
Tel 01 43 80 20 71 Fax 01 47 54 92 21
www.styloswagram.com
In 2008 I received a note about this store, which had not been on the list. They carry all the major brands of pens. Monsieur Fau does repairs in the backroom and can look after chaning nibs in pens that require the special work of releasing and sealing the nib sections. (Thanks Anders Blichfeldt)
Rennes France
Autograph
5 rue Chateaurenault
3500 Rennes; Tel: 99.79.39.45, Fax: 99.77.39.46
I found this pen store on a walk into the old city centre of Rennes, Autograph has a fine selection of pens that includes Waterman, Parker, Lamy, Sheaffer, Omas, Cross as well as other lines commonly found in Europe. The store also sells a good selection of pen cases, men's wallets and purses that accompany the European pen lines. Staff, while only speaking French, you are in France, are very helpful. The store does does not shut down from the afternoon period, so what better place do you have to spend the 12 to 2:00 time slot?
Roma, Italia
» See Rome/Roma - Stores of Note/Great Stores
Stockholm, Sweden
NK Papper; Hamngatan 18-20; S-111 77
Stockholm, Sweden
Tel: +46-8-762 8379 or 762 8503;
Fax: +46-8-762-8460
The NK Papper (Department Store) has the largest and best selection of pens in Sweden. New designs and display of all major brands. Also a large paper and stationery selection. Located right in downtown Stockholm. (J. Waltersson).
Esselte Svanstroems;
Hamngatan 8;
Stockholm, Sweden
Tel: +46-8-611 3462; Fax: +46-8-611
6150
On the same street at the NK, but with THE largest pen & paper as well as office and drawing instrument selection. The store used to have its own brand name fountain pen, Svanstroem, with Conway Stewart as the supplied of the pens. (J. Waltersson)
Strasbourg, France
Gerard - Style et Plume;
21 rue des Grandes Arcades;
Place Kleber
Strasbourg, France
The store carries extensive lines of Mont Blanc, Waterman, Pelikan, Parker, Shaeffer, Lamy, Dupont as well as other lines. You will find pen cases, collector cabinets and inks. Store staff provide excellent assistance and will allow you to try out various nibs. One of the signs of good pen staff is when they watch you write with a pen and make suggestions on other nibs etc. Emphasis is on writing with pens, not just collecting them! Open 8:00 am - 7:00 pm. Closed over the 12-2 period. Bravo thanks. J. Willmore.
Torino, Italy
Musso Stilografiche;
Via Lagrange, 32/c;
Torino, Italy
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A great shop, with a superb collection of antique pens, including the one Aurora Etiopia in coloured celluloid that is known to exist. This is the very pen that is featured in a number of fountain pen books. Giovanni Abrate originally wrote me with his comments on the store and so when I had the opportunity to visit Torino in 2006 I visited the store and met with David. His uncle is the owner and the store has been in the family for over 26 years. The store has been in operation since 1932.
The store has a good layout and an impressive stock of pens. In additional to carrying a broad range of pens that include Aurora, Cross, Dupon, Mntegrappa, Pelikan, Sheaffer, Delta, Omas, Visconti, Mont Blanc, Parker and Waterman, they also do some pen repairs on site.
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The store is easy to find. For sure you will see the Piazza San Carlo. via Lagrange runs just a block behind parallel to via Roma. Check their web site under Negozi | Dove Siamo for a map showing the location. Web Site: www.mussostilo.com |
Monasterolo Stilografiche
Via Cernaia, 24;
Torino, Italy
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When Giovanni Abrate sent me a note about this store, he told me that a real gentleman owns this store and he will spend time to show you some great pens. His prices are always reasonable and he has a great selection of pens. I made this store one of my must visit places on my 2006 visit to Torino. I was glad I did.
Signor Ciabatti and I discussed the various pen lines and he also showed me where he repairs pens, in the back section of his shop. He was working on a Waterman Opera, one of my favorite pens. The store has been located on via Cernaia since 1932 and Ciabatti has operated this store since 1983. In talking about the various line of pens he was very proud of the Italian lines of pens. When I talked about the tour of the Aurora pen factory that would take place in the afternoon, he indicated I would enjoy seeing how the company makes a good quality pen.
The store is easy to find. If you are at the Piazza San Carlo, head north west out of the Piazza, Via Santa Terresa changes into Via Cernai after a few blocks.
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La Stiolgrafica
Via Nizza 1
Torino, Italy
A nice, old-fashioned pen shop near the train station. (Thanks: Giovanni Abrate). So if you arrive by train, this store is right across from the station. This small, old store carries mainly modern pens and the store is worth a visist to see how things used to be. (Thanks: Ian).
Quill
via Monte di Pieta 17
Torino, Italy
A great pen shop, operating since 1938, holds a good stock of pens, with the right balance of modern and vintage pens. The staff will be happy to show you any of the pens but only Italian and French are spoken. (Thanks: Ian)
Trieste, Italy
La Stilotecnica;
29, Via Carducci;
Trieste, Italy
Tel: 040.63.63.76;
Fax: 040.37.25.610;
e-mail: stilo@interactive.it
When visiting Trieste, here is a great pen store to visit... Stilotecnica. In addition to an excellent selection of new pens the store stocks a very interesting collection of vintage pens -- all for sale. (Thanks: J. Kraft and M. Slanina for finding this store.)
Toulouse, France
Toulouse Stylos;
26, rue d'Alsace-Lorraine
Toulouse
If has been many years since I have been here, but as I remember this store, if you get the chance, Toulouse is a wonderful city to visit, not only for the sites and atmosphere, but also for this pen store. What a store.
There are counters and counters of pens. The staff go out of their way to help you. The nice thing about a good pen is that you use it for years, and the memories of why and when you bought it remain forever. I bought my Waterman Mans 100 fountain pen here in Toulouse for my 40th birthday. At the time I was having a hard time considering whether to get the pen with a broad or medium nib. The staff here were very friendly and offered that I could try the pen out for a few days and exchange it if the nib is not right. Now this is my kind of pen store. I don't think my wife wanted us traveling back to the store for fear of what else I may buy so I made my decision and we moved on. Friendly staff, enough English spoken to make it an easy and pleasant experience for all. They will also offer to help you with VAT De-Tax forms with no hesitation.
Verona, Italy
Lo Scrittoio;
18, Corso Porta Borsari
Verona is a wonderful town. On your trip to Italy don't just do the Florence, Rome thing, but get out and visit some of the other sights. Oh there is such a feel of history and romance in this town.
A lovely little pen store that is part of the Pineider chain of fine pen stores throughout Italy. Has a number of fine antique pens for viewing as well as all the grand lines of pen for sale. Staff is friendly although tutto Italanio! Recent visits to the store by others confirm that its a nice store with great staff. Bravo!
Vienna, Austria
Wiener Füllfeder Werkstatt
Grahofer Leopold
Kellermanng 5
1070 Wien/Vienna
Tel: +43 (1) 413 81 50
I have received a note advising that Leo's has relocated his store. His new store is more inviting and spacious so there is more space to show his selection. The store is open from 9:00 to 18:00. (Thanks R Pohoryles)
The previous review notes: Owner Leo Grahofer runs a great pen store that specializes in old vintage pens, mostly European, but American pens as well. The selection is broad, including those that he has restored himself to a nearly mint state. He also has a large stock of spare parts. The reason why one should see his shop that he has a large offer of forgotten European pens, with a local accent. You find there wonderful pens from the Golden Age in Austria, some of them with a quite interesting art nouveau design, all of them with excellent nibs. Among the nearly forgotten brands you find Tempo, Napoleon, and Europen. He is also proud about his large offer of pens with a glass nib. But he indeed has a large offer of American vintage pens as well.
His collection has included such rate pens as a Waterman eye dropper pen form the 1910s. Leo focuses on vintage pens, he repairs old pens as well, however, he does not touch pens produced later than 1960.
(Thanks R Pohoryles).
Mayr & Fessler
Kärtnerstraße
1010 Wien/Vienna Austria
The general manager, Mr. Jansa, has a broad knowledge on modern pens and very good relation with S.T.Dupont. S.T. Dupont sends annually a repair engineer to Austria, both for service of your Dupont products and, indeed, for sales promotion. But Mayr & Fessler has all the modern brands on offer. The shop also sells a lot of tourist kitsch, no wonder as it is located directly behind the Opera and the famous Hotel Sacher. The shop windows should not stop you from entering the shop. You find excellent advice. (Thanks R Pohoryles)
Zurich, Switzerland
Landolt-Arbenz
Bahnhofstrasse 65
CH-8001 Zürich
Phone: +41 43 443 7700
http://www.landolt-arbenz.ch (website in German)
Bahnhofstrasse is one of the main shopping streets in Zurich and this store appears small from the outside, but once insite, there is plenty to see.
The ground floor primarily displays writing accessories and at the end, on a small mezzanine, there is an area specifically set up for MontBlanc products. They are an authorized retailer.
The pen department is located on the lower floor stretching outside the ground floor area. As you go down the stairs you will see a wall full of all sorts of ink.
In the middle a counter has on one side a glass display with (specifically for fountain pen) accessories as ink bottles and ink dryers. The other side holds a large 3 or 4 yard display of standard pens of all sorts and brands.
On the opposite wall holds a floor to ceiling display with all their Limited and Special Edition pens, which is most impressive.
Jasper Coppens wrote about his experience. Sitting down, a sales person presents him with a series of different fountain pens to test and compare. For the Limited Edition Pens, the Owners present these complete with advice about the special 'cases'. Pens were handled with white velvet glove but testing was of course part of the experience.
