Veneto
There is much to see in this Region of Italy.
Yes Venice is in this Region but the architecture and history of the other towns and cities should not be missed.
Our first visit to this Region was back in 1994 when we went to Verona. The national roads, like the S11 are fine as long as you are not mindful of being in a specific location at a specific time, but we had to leave that road and pop up on the Autostrada to get anywhere in this area.
Padova
In Italy is is Padova, outside the country the city is Padua, but regardless of what name you use, this is an important city in Italy to visit. Overlooked by some visitors to Italy, this is one of the most important art cities in Italy. Capital of the Padova Province, in Veneto Region.
The town is scenic with a network of arcaded streets opening into large communal piazze, and many bridges crossing the various branches of the Bacchiglione River. At one time the River surrounded the ancient walls and was more like a moat.
Palazzo della Ragione has a great hall on top floor, and has the largest roof unsupported by columns in Europe. I remember this building as our hotel was located just around the corner from the piazza.
Work started on the Palazzo in 1172 and it took until 1219 to finish the structure.
It was changted in 1306 when Fra Giovanni covered the the structure with a single roof - previously there were three roofs and divides to the main hall.
After a fire in thre 1400's the salon was refrescoed by Nicolo' Miretto and Stefano da Ferrara (1425 to 1440). Below the top flow is a market that has been taking place for centuries.
Scrovegni Chapel is the most favous sight in Padova. Inside are a series of frescoes completed in 1305 by Giotto. Enrico degli Scrovegni, a wealthy banker commissioned the work for his private chapel once attached to his family's palazzo.
The frescos show the life of the Virgin Mary and the series is considered to one of the most important in the world.
Other than the work of Giotto's, the inside of the chapel is relatively plain. There is a stark barrel vault roof.
Of note is the work by Giotto's, the Last Judgment which covers the entire wall above the chapel's entrance.
Each wall of the chapel has three tiers of frescos each with four two-meter-square scenes. The panels are noted for their emotional intensity, sculptural figures, and naturalistic space. Between the main scenes Giotto used a faux architectural scheme of painted marble decorations and small recesses.
Entrance to the chapel is an elaborate ordeal, as it involves spending 15 minutes prior to entrance in a climate-controlled, airlocked vault, used to stabilize the temperature between the outside world and the inside of the chapel.
This is to improve preservation. Book ahead if planning a visit. You can book a tour of the chapel in advance - this is not one of those places that you just walk up to and go in.
Eremitani Church is the 13th century and holds the tombs of Jacopo (1324) and Ubertinello (1345) da Carrara, lords of Padua. Of note is the chapel of Saints James and Christopher. Much was destroyed in the second world war as the church stood beside the Nazi headquarters. The monastery now is the municipal art gallery. The Gran Guardia In the Piazza dei Signori is the beautiful loggia and was built in 1493 - 1526.
Palazzo del Capitanio, the residence of the Venetian governors, has a truly great door by Giovanni Maria Falconetto. He is said to have introduced Renaissance architecture to Padua. He completed the door in 1532.
The Cathedral wss remodelled in 1552 after a design of Michelangelo. Of note are the art work of Nicolò Semitecolo, Francesco Bassano and Giorgio Schiavone. The Baptistry, consecrated in 1281, houses the most important frescoes cycle by Giusto de' Menabuoi.
St. Anthony Basilica was started in 1231 and not completed until the beginning of the 1300s. The eight eight domes and spires are stunning. The body of St. Anthony is here and the basilica is the focal point of pilgrimages from all over the world.
Prato della Valle is a large square, and next to the Red Square in Moscow, is probably the largest in Europe. The centre holds a garden lined by 78 statues portraying famous citizens.
St. Justine Basilica was one of the most important monasteries in the area. In 1810 Napolean ended that. Bit it re-opened in 1919. Tombs of saints and relics of the Apostle St. Matthias and Evangelist St. Luke make this a very important place.
Bo Palace is a collection of buildings built between 1542 and 1601. Added to many times, it is now the main sea of the University, founded in 1222.
Piazza dei Signori is a large square, has a market, palazzo and the Clock Tower with an astronomical clock.
Verona
We had the misfortune of arriving here on a Monday and this is a city that is quite closed up on that day despite being the largest and most modern city of Veneto. But it is a beautiful city. The buildings have those rich red and orange colours and the architecture classic. The piazza delle Erbe has passageways that link it to a series of squares. It is a great city to walk about although some of the main sights are quite the distance apart and it is easy to miss things.
When you make your way to the Piazza Bra you are in the centre of the town. There are some notable buildings that make up this piazza. Walk down the via Mazzini and that will take you to the Piazza delle Erbe.
Asolo
We found the road to Asolo very scenic and you drive up to the top of a hill to find Asolo looking out over lunch green fields. We stayed at the Hotel Duce. Our advice, look out the window when you check in and if you are over the entrance to a restaurant, think twice. The evening was non-ending guests leaving, talking, starting carts and driving away at speeds only found in Italy.
In 1994 we were able to drive right into the town, up to the square opposite the hotel and just be there. Many years later when we approach the town they had stopped car traffic from entering and required cars to be park in lots on the outskirts of town. Good idea as the streets are narrow and the cars just ruin the ambiance of being there.
Bassano del Grappa
Old city, grand buildings and a covered bridge that has been re-built many times. Great colour tones to the buildings of Bassano, this is a nice town to visit. Of course this town is also famous for the Italian pen company - Montegrappa.
We returned here in 2009 for a tour of the Montegrappa factory and a visit to the town.
Venice
When I was reading the novel The City of Falling Angels by John Berendt, the following few lines brought back some of my impressions of Venice: "Having spent more than a week there in November 2004, I can attest to the rude mobs that jam the narrow streets, to the ludicrous pigeon-feeding frenzy in St. Mark's Square, to the endless rows of shops peddling cheesy masks and other overpriced junk, to mediocre food, also overpriced, and to the world's most expensive (and worst) martini, at the stupendously overrated Harry's Bar."
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| Plazzo Ducale | The working canals | The homes along the canals |
Yes this is a city over-run with tourists in all but the off season, if there is one, but is is a place you just have to experience. Some references to Venice say that this is a city that seduces, this is a city that irritates but it is definitely a city that will impress you.
Known as the Salute, designed by Palladio
Beautiful wood water taxis, they are fast, but very expensive.
Plazzo Ducale di Venezia was the residence of the Doge of Venice and built between 1309 and 1424.
The Gondoliers, by law, must be of Venetian birth.
The Gondoliers, by law, must be of Venetian birth. rugs. The typial charge is about 80 or 100 euros for a 35 minute "giro".
There are six districts: Cannaregio, San Polo, Dorsoduro, Santa Croce, San Marco and Castello.
Piazza San Marco, or St Mark's Square, is the centre of Venice. This is the the drawing room of Europe and the only square named a piazza in Venice. All others are called campi. Here is where you go to get your shots feeding the famous pigeons of Venice.
The Doge's Palace, or Palazzo Ducale, is one of the most photographed buildings in Venice. A gothic palace, the building that stands today was primarily built between 1309 to 1424. This was the residence of the Doge and contained the offices of various institutions. The first floor held offices for lawyers, the Chancellery; the Censors and the Naval Offices. The second floor held the Grand Council chamber, the Ballot chamber and the Doge's apartments. The third floor has the impressive Sala del Collegio which is covered with with paintings. At the rear is the Bridge of Sighs - the small bridge that connects to the prison across a small canal. All a very interesting tour.
Walk the town, enjoy the sights. Buy a day pass on the water bus system and you can ride to your hearts content seeing much.