Emilia-Romagna and a Drive to the Coast
The Emilia-Romagna Region was formed in 1947, with the joining of the Emilia and Romagna Regions.
Most of the major cities, with the exception of Ferrara and Ravenna are along the ancient Roman via Emilia. It travels from what is now Piacenza to Rimini. Travel + Leisure, in one of its 2007 issues, describes this region as being "blissfully crowd-free" as it is off the main route of art pilgrims. Not that there is not great art and archiecture in the region. There is lots to see.
Bologna
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Bologna is often missed in the rush to travel between the big three: Roman, Florence and Venice. But if you stop there you will find a beautiful arcaded centre. This is a busy city with a good feel. It is home to one of Europe's oldest universities. We had visited Bologna many years ago and most recently stayed here in 2007 when I was able to arrange a visit to the Omas pen factory. The Omas what? Come on... Omas makes one of the top fountain pens available in the world! |
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Arcaded streets of Bologna and grand architecture on buildings |
We found the arcaded streets, medieval towers, historic churches of course, palaces, galleries and museums. The town was a treat to walk. We also ate some of the best food in Italy here. The Piazza Maggiore is the centre of the town. The façade of the S. Petronio Church is quite plain. It was built between 1390 and 1659 and is still not finished. It is open daily from 7:45 to 12:30 and then again from 3:00 to 6:00. |
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The church was meant to be bigger than St Peter in Rome, but the money ran out and the building remained unfinished. The foundation laid in 1390 started work that carried over several centuries. The side walls were built with the recycled materials from the nearby demolished buildings. The base of the façade, is a striking contrast to the unfinished upper part and has elegant mouldings red Veronese marble and Istrian stone. On the floor you can check out the meridian line that was traced back in 1655. This is actually a sun calendar. An opening in the ceiling allows a beam of sunlight onto the bronze strip. The strip is engraved with the days of the year and signs of the zodiac. |
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Piazza Maggorie is the heart of the city |
The fountain is dedicated to the sea god and dates from 1564/66. To the right you'll see Palazzo del Comune, or the town hall, which was built in the 13th and 14th centuries. The bell tower has a magnificent carillon clock. |
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The Basilica of San Domenico holds Pisano's tomb for Saint Dominic (13th Century) and it is impressive. Pisano carved a series of marbel panels on all four sides of the saint's sarcophagus. The lid of the tomb, in marble is impressive, and in front is an angel by Michelangelo, who spend time in Bologna and also studied under Pisano. The Basilica of Sant Domenico is open from 7:30 in the morning until 1:00 pm, and then opens again at 3:30 pm until 7:00 pm - so plan your day accordingly. |
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The Santa Maria della Vita holds the amazing terra-cotta Lamentation, Il Compianto. There are seven life-size figures that make up their piece. The Santa Maria della Vita is open from 7:30 in the morning until 7:00 pm at night Monday to Saturday and on Sundays from 4:30 to 7:00 pm. | |
Piazza Maggiore, the
heart of the city with the Fontana del Nettuno which is one of the identified
symbols of Bologna. Parma
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Parma was an interesting stop. We spent half a day walking around the town. The Duomo shows 12th Century Romanesque architecture. The middle portal has bas-reliefs depicting the months of the year. The baptistry is a stunning Romanewque-Gothic building. We have visited Parma twice, and both times it was an enjoyable stay.
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The Battistero, an octagonal building was built between 1196 and 1270. From the outside there are three portals adorned by the statues and reliefs by Benedetto Antelami. These are the top of the list of what are great examples of Romanesque sculpture. Go inside.The ribbed dome containing sculptures to depict the months, the seasons and the signs of the zodiac. Most of the frescoes date from the 13th century. Other important buildings include the Teatro Regio (Royal Theater) which opened in 1829 and is is one of the most important opera houses in Italy. The Palazzo della Pilotta has three courtyards and was built between 1583 and 1622 and another building left unfinished. It was meant to serve as lodgings for the court servants. The Galleria Nazionale is one of Italy's most important art museums. |