AQUITAINE
This is a triangular shaped area of France that runs along the Atlantic on the west side, and pierced at the top by the mouth of the Gironde River. The Region includes the following Departments:
Dordogne (24) with its capital city of Périgueux;
Gironde (33) with its capital city of Bordeaux;
Landes (40) with its capital of Mont de Marsan;
Pyrénées Atlantiques (64) with Pau as its capital city;
Lot et Garonne (47) with Agen as its capital city.
The vineyards of this region produce some of the great wines France. Many of the small towns have colourful markets. Select the link at the left for an outline of the most common market days. Things may change from year to year but this is what is known at the current time.
This is one of the most scenic regions in France and we have traveled here a number of times. In parts,traveling in some of the areas is like going back in time.
Travel in this region during July and August means you may see more of the back-end of camper vans than seeing the country-side. Travel in the non-peak season is more pleasant.
This is the region of the Dordogne, one of the largest rivers in France. The river cut through the limestone cliffs over thousands of years. Villages hang from the cliffs or are located on narrow tracks on land in each bend of the river.
Aquitaine also includes the Medoc Region, the Gironde Estuary, where the mouths of the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers merge and then flow into the Atlantic. We drove through this region and I don't think you could get a bad bottle of wine anywhere!
Grand chateaux, as pictured to the right, were numerous. All surrounded with vineyards.
Bordeaux is the capital of the region. Located on the River Garonne near the Atlantic Coast this is an interesting town to visit. The centre of the city has numerous 18th century buildings and interesting stores.
Domme
One of the bastide towns of the Region, Domme dates back to 1283. One a steep hill, a visit to Domme is not only interesting in seeing the town, but from here you get some incredible views of the Dordogne River and the surrounding countryside. The Belvedere de la Barre, offering the viewpoint, is just past the Church of Notre Dame de l'Assumption.
We arrived on what was one of the few rainy days of the trip. We ducked into the Church of Notre Dame de l'Assumption and in twenty or so minutes the rain had past, the sun came out and there was the opportunity to walk about the town and also get some great shots.
One of the pleasures of Visiting the towns of the Dordogne is to visit and shop at the markets. Most of the towns are packed with people and you will find a great surge of activity. The best are in the summer months. Driving into the town, and finding parking will be a challenge, but find a place to leave the car, grab your camera, and head into the market.
|
Town | Market Day |
| Agonac | Saturday | |
| Beaumont | Tuesday, Saturday | |
| Belves | Saturday | |
| Bergerac | Saturday, Wednesday | |
| Brantome | Tuesday, Friday | |
| Cenac | Tuesday | |
| Cubjac | Friday | |
| Daglan | Sunday | |
| Domme | Thursday | |
| Eymet | Thursday | |
| Excideuil | Thursday | |
| Issigeac | Sunday | |
| Jumilhac | Wednesday | |
| La Coquille | Thursday | |
| Lalinde | Thursday | |
| La Roche Chalais | Saturday | |
| Le Bugue | Tuesday | |
| Le Buisson - Cadouin | Friday | |
| Les Eyzies | Londay | |
| Mareuil | Tuesday | |
| Monpazier | Thursday | |
| Montpon | Wednesday | |
| Montignac | Saturday, Wednesday | |
| Mussidan | Saturday | |
| Neuvic | Saturday, Tuesday | |
| Nontron | Saturday | |
| Perigeux | Saturday, Wednesday | |
| Piegut | Wednesday | |
| Razac | Saturday, Wednesday | |
| Riberac | Tuesday, Friday | |
| Rouffignac | Sunday | |
| Salignac-Eyvigues | Tuesday | |
| Sarlat | Saturday, Wednesday | |
| Sigoules | Friday | |
| Sorges | Sunday | |
| St Aulaye | Saturday | |
| St Astier | Thursday | |
| St Cyprien | Sunday | |
| St Genies | Sunday | |
| Terrasson | Thursday | |
| Thenon | Tuesday | |
| Thiviers | Saturday | |
| Tocane | Monday | |
| Tremolat | Tuesday | |
| Vergt | Friday | |
| Villefranche du Perigord | Saturday | |
Brantôme
Brantôme is located 27 km from the city of Périgueux . It is relatively small and has a real village atmosphere. There are chateaux, old stone bridges and of course if on a Saturday, an incredible market. Just walking around the market is an experience.
The abbaye, on the opposite side of the river from the main town centre, was the home of the French writer, Brôtome. When he was not writing he was one of the escorts of Mary Queen of Scots.
The church with an 11th century bell tower, has been restored. You have to plan your visit is you wish to see the Cistercian abbey of Boschaud, located further up the valley. The abbaye was formed in 1163 and has been restored but guided visists are only available in July and August.
La Sauve Majeure
On our 2004 visit to this region we visited La Sauve Majeur. Located a short distance from Bordeaux, if you are planning to vist Sainte Emilion, and you should, this is very easy to find.
The Benedictine Abbey was founded 1079 and was in its time one of the greatest abbeys in the South-West of France.
Today, one walks through the ruins and the size and majestic feeling of the previous abbaye comes through.
This abbey was a major stop for pilgrims on the road to St James of Compostella. It was a serious endeavour with some 300 monks on site in the 12th century.
St Peter's Church is in the centre of the graveyard bordered. The Church was rebuilt at the end of the 12th century.
The chevet is decorated with four life-size statues set in niches: St Peter, the Virgin and Child, St James and St Michael. Above the entrance door is set a magnificent statue of St Peter, dating from the 13th century.
The interior has many paintings. Many scenes restored in 1865.The Abbey and St Peter's Church are UNESCO World Heritage sites.
St. Cyprien
On our 2011 visit to the Dordogne, we rented the Beauvert Cottage which is located about 20 minutes from St. Cyprien.
We found that St. Cyprient has a great market on Sunday mornings and of course it was the destination of my morning outing for fresh croissants. The travels books talk about an abbaye with cloisters. I am worried as there was a large sign on the road, near the church, which referred to the new "cloister apartments" - I sure hope a real estate venture did not replace the cloisters.
In the end, we were pretty busy using St. Cryprien as our base to travel around the area so we did not spend that much time, other than Sunday at the market, in the town.
Saint-Émilion
So I have mentioned wine many times in our travels so of course our travels took us to Saint-Émilion.
Located in the Dordogne basin, Saint-Émilion is about 40 km east of Bordeaux. Now you can picture it on a map.
The town of Saint-Émilion is considered to be one of the most scenic sites in France. And while you may read this statement in many travel books, on our two visits here, we have always been taken with the beauty of the town and the country-side.
The golden tones of the linestone in the buildings give this a glow and colour that remains with you for some time. A breton monk, Émilion made his hermitage inone of the grottoes and then later Benedictinemonks founded a monastery. The town grew complete with defenses.
The Convent of the Cordeliers has a 14th Century Cloister. Off the Place du Marché are the windows of a church that was carved out of the solid rock that the town sits upon. The doorway of this church dates fromthe 14th Century, and the church itself was built by the monks in the 9th to 12th Centuries -- 300 years.
Also heading out from the Place du Marché you can reach the Place des Créneaux with its monastry buildings, the bell town of the underground church and there are cloisters.
Oh yes the wine. There are plenty of shops to visit. But, as pictured to the right I found the Vignobles & Chateaux shop. There it was a pleasing atmosphere and I was able to taste and buy wine. Patrick was gracious in showing me wine, and then selecting a range of wines that were in my price range which I must admit was lower than many of the wines of the store! And that is an important aspect as who wants to go to a wine store and leave because they can't afford anything.
He looked after everything to get the wines shipped back to Vancouver. Thanks Patrick! The did arrive in fine shape. All I had to do is mortgage my house to pay the duty. It was good to hear from him again years later. Yes, we will be back!
While in Saint-Ëmilion we stayed at Palais Cardinal which is one of our Great Places To Stay.
Sarlat
Sarlat is a medieval town build around a large Benedictine abbey. It is one of the most popular towns in the Dordogne.
Walk along the Rue de la Republique. It will take you along the full length of the old town. There are of narrow streets that lead off on either side. The cathedral is to the south-east of Sarlat, with the attractive Place de Payrou and Hotel de la Boétie. The Place de la Liberté all make the town very scenic.
Along the streets are impressive 14th and 16th mansions.
