Auxerre

Located between Paris and Dijon, Auxerre is one of the towns with Burgundy oozing out of every building in terms of character. Being located on the Yonne River, this was originally an active port, transferring wine from region to other areas of France. With the building of railways, this town as a commercial centre declined.

The cathedral was built between 1215 and 1233. Final construction was completed many years later, around 1540.

There are remarkable bas-reliefs on the three doorways. They date fromthe 13th Century.

The Abbey of Saint-Germain includes cloisters from the 17th Century.

The character of the old town is marked by the old clock, built into an arch over one of streets.

Also to note, Chablis is about a 15 k drive from Auxerre, and Chablis is considered one of the top white wines of France.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beaune

If you want to feel like you are having the "wine experience" go to Beaune. Located about 316 km from Paris, this is a town of wine. It is the wine-trading centre of Burgundy and rightfully does hold the distinction of being one of the "most charming towns" in France.

The Hôtel-Dieu dominates the centre of town, it is a mediaeval infirmary, and has been in continuous use as a hospital from 1443 to 1971. Part of it stills has a healthcare connection, being a home for the aged. There is a wonderful courtyard and the gazed-tile roof just stands out and you will recognize this building as one of the regularly photographed buildings of Burgundy.

We have some great meals are various restaurants on the various times we have stayed here. Beware of the wine tours. They are great, you will get to taste some very good French wine, but it wiped out a day, and even more than that. After one tour, we went back to our hotel passed out, and as we drove out of the town the next day heard ourselves saying: "we will have to come back and see more next time!".

There are restaurants everywhere, and if there is one in your hotel, check out where your room is. On one night in Beaune we could hardly sleep as they threw out bottle after bottle of empty wine bottles into the recycle area.

Côte des Nuits

The Côte des Nuits is a noted wine region in the north of theCôte d'Or. This is the area that runs from Nuits-Saint-Georges to Dijon.

One of the more noted wines from this area is Pinot Noir although there are plenty of wines to select, and we enjoyed them all!

Six of the communities in this area prdouce Grand Cru. For touring, scenic views of enless vineyards. Little villages here and there.

Dijon

On one of our trips through this area we drove from Beaune along the N74 towards Dijon. This was so that we would drive the Côte des Nuits.

Right: Endless green - the vineyards of the Cote du Nuits.

But a few words about Burgundy and the wine appellation system as I have never really been able to follow it. But as we have traveled in France, and difference aspects become better known, some sense seems to be emerging!

Within Burgundy are areas for Chablis and Côte d'Or and of course the highest the Grands Crus. But across the Region there are different appellations and this get compounded with the terms Grands and Premiers Crus. Any individual vineyard can market many different wines. Part of this flows from the inheritance law of France. As when the owner of an estate dies, the law requires the estate to be divided between the beneficiaries, rather than passed on to one person. So this results in a number of new different estates all producing wine of different quality, but with a similar producer's name.

For wine from Burgundy the Grands and Premiers Crus make up about 12% of all the wine produced. The Grands Crus vineyards which can make some of the best wines are about forty in number and all are located in Chablis and the Côte d'Or. Only wines from these regions and the Côte Chalonnaise can carry the Premier Cru designation.

So getting on with the Côte de Nuits. The Côte d'Or has two main regions with the Côte de Nuits being in the north just south of Dijon -- ah you knew I was getting to Dijon!

So bring a little knowledge of wine to the area, and bring a camera, as if you are in Region in September, as we were, you will find your self-stopping for photos every fifteen minutes.

Nuits-St-Georges

The town of the area is Nuits-St-Georges and this is a town know for its red wines. The appellations system for the Côte de Nuits is: Grands Crus are wines not required to bear a village name. For example, the wine from the Grand Cru Chambertin Clos de Bèze would not include the actual village name of Gevrey-Chambertin. A wine blended from several sites will be labeled as Premier Cru (versus Grand Cru). And a wine from an individual vineyard has the vineyard name -- Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos Saint-Jacques.

The Dukes of Burgundy kept an estate in this area and the Cuverie des Ducs has two huge wine presses that date from the 13th to 15th Century. The Gevrey Château is open for visits in the morning and afternoon.

The Château Clos de Vougeot is also open for visits in the morning and afternoon. Remember, everything shuts down around noon until after two in the afternoon - that that time for a great lunch with a bottle of wine.

 

 

Semur-en-Auxois

Semur-en-Auxois, in Cote-d'Or, is a town with medieval structure remaining. A very popular attraction, the town is built on a pink granite rocky with the towers of the castle overlooking the town. It is one of those towns that looks great as you approach. We found it okay as a shot visit to walk about.

There are cobbled streets with old houses so there is plenty to see as you walk about.

The only remains of the castle are the four towers.

Villeneuve-sur-Yonne

This town sits on the Yonne River. We stayed here because actress Leslie Caron ran a small hotel. It was a charming place to stay. When we visited the church we were given a personal tour. Stained glass windows, when viewed with binoculars are very impressive indeed.

Vougeot

Vougeot is one of the villages along the route. There is a great château with an endless vineyard - this one is one of the note in the area. The Cîteaux Monks originally stated the Château Clos de Vougeot. In 1551 the chapel and buildings were rebuilt and enlarged to form the current Château. You will be impressed with the well, the area around the well is quite wide, wide enough for mules and houses to enter and carry water to the vineyards. Although the château has its own vineyard, we were told that 86 vineyards were allowed to use the Château du Clos Vougeot name.

We will have to go back as we drove over to see the Abbey du Cîteaux, as cloisters are a passion.

Unfortunately abbey and the cloisters were closed for the mid-day and we could not get in.

We kept travelliing around and unfortunately did not get back to see the cloisters.

Oh well, it is always good to have a reason to return.

We stayed at the Hotel Les Grands Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin.

This was being in the wine harvest. The aroma of grape was everywhere. All day from early in the morning to the evening tractors pulling wagons filled with grapes kept coming in from the vineyards into the various buildings in the samll time to make wine.

We were not alone, as the area was busy with bike tours. At the end of the day the riders would would return, some looking quite exhausted, but what a way to spend the day.

At dinner that evening, at a restaurant in town, I learned the hard way about pointing to your wine selection on the menu. Be exact, and read back the name no matter how you make it sound. The prices vary. You can be looking at a $50 bottle on one line and a $150 bottle on the next line - they don't typically list their wines in price order! Well of course, I just pointed, and the waited must have thought I pointed to a different line. Well it was great wine, but it jack up the price of the evening considerably.

 

Well, this is the area of wine. On our last trip to this region Karen was ill and we went to a pharmacy in Brochon, as we were leaving Dijon on our way to Paris. When asked if it would be okay to drink with the medication, the pharmacist looked us right in the eye and said: "Of course, as long as it is good wine." Well that it was!