Rome - Roma
Rome is like a second home. What is a typical day for us now, considering we have stayed in this city so many times? On one of days we have a standard walk that allows to to enjoy some of the top sights.
- The starting point of a day walk of course depends on where we are staying, but typically we make our way to the Trevi Fountain.
- We then leave on Via delle Muratte, which is an interesting and busy small street as it is on the way to the Patheon. But we turn on the second left at Via di Santa Maria in Via. This takes us through the Galleria Sciarra Colonna and then to the small street of Via di San Marcello.
- Tthere we visit with my friend Marco Parascenzo at Novelli Pen. We have a tradition with Marco to go to lunch at L'Archetto, on via dell'Archetto, 26 for a great pasta.
- From there we make our way back to the Via del Corso and we walk along Via di Pietra past the columns of the Temple of Hadrian at the Piazza di Pietra. We continue along Via dei Pastini. If we cut down to the Via dei Seminario that takes us by the Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola a Campo Marzio, the Sant'Ignazio. - go in and look up at the ceiling. These routes take us to the Pantheon.
- It is then a few more blocks, which takes us past the Sant'Eustachio as well as some pretty impressive government offices complete with police guards to the Piazza Navona.
So that is just one of our regular walks. There are other places we vist, and so many places to see in Rome, but this walk is one of our traditions.
Temple of Hadrian
A walk by the Temple of Hadrian because it is on the route from the Trevi Fountain, Novelli Pen Store, and then the Piazza Navona.
The temple was built in 145 and is now part of a building erected in the 17th Century - the Piazza di Pietra, the Piazza of Stone.
Along one of the walls are 11 of the Corinthian columns that were originally part of the external colonnade of the temple.
Sant'Ignazio
The church is dedicated to Ignatius of Loyola, the founder the of the Jesuit order located in Rome. The church was built in the period of 1626 to 1650.
Inside therre are impressive Corinthian pilasters, marble of various colours, stucco reliefs and lots of gilding. Andrea Pozzo painted much of the interior. The ceiling fresco is known as The Apotheose of S. Ignazio. The Trompe'loeil (a method of paintings that means to trick the eye, creates a three dimensional depth) painting across the ceiling is impressive.
As you move your eye around the edges you will see the four continents referenced: Europe, Asia, Africa and America.
There are enough chapels and naves, sculptures and a dome to make this chruch well worth a visit.
Pantheon
How many times can I go the Pantheon? I let you know when I reach my limit but in the many years we have stayed in Rome, it is still a location that fascinates me. Don't attempt to eat or buy a drink in one of the overly expensive cafes in the Piazza, just spend some time in the Pantheon itself.
Here is a structure that is meant to remain. It was built by Marcus Agrippa as a temple to the gods of Rome in 27 BC. Fires in Rome destroyed the building. Rebuilt by Domitian and then again struck by fire in 110 AD. In 126 AD by Emperor Hadrian rebuilt the structure.
The structure was consecrated as a church, and this saved the building from destruction, a fate of many ancient Roman buildings during the medieval period.
The external marble has been stripped but inside, the marble, although restored, is beautiful. It is a remarkable building, and there it stands, some 2,000 years and it still has the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world.
The oculus, the whole in the centre of the dome, is the only source of light for the interior and sunlight moves around the interior of the building like a sundial. The whole is always open and there is a drainage system under the floor for rainwater to leave the building.
Pope Urban VIII has the bronze ceiling of the portico melted down and used for work on the Castel Ant'Angelo among other locations.
The inside has the tombs on people that include painter Raphael, composer Corelli and architect Peruzzi as well as Vittoria Emanuelle II and Umberto I, two Kings of Italy.
Spanish Steps
I am not sure why we always return to the Spanish Steps but sure enough, at one point on a visit to Rome we are there!. Good to have some traditions.
The steps are noted to be the longest and widest staircase in Europe. The 138 steps were built between 1723-1725.
Today think crowds. Everyime we walk over to the Steps they are jammed with tourists. You can hardly make your way up the steps. However, if you stay in the area, and walk over very early in the morning, then they do look good in the soft morning light and there is a peace about the place.
St Peter's Basilica
The line-ups to get into St. Peter's now make it an event to enter and enjoy this truly remarkable basilica.
We can remember of our first trips to Rome where we would just walk over to the Vatican, walk up the steps and into the Basilica. Now it is a little more complicated. Don't wear gym type shorts or you will find yourself not getting in. Based on our last visit gone are the sales of "paper pants" but there is a check for suitable clothing. Bare shoulders or bare thights do not cut it. .
The inside is massive. It is the largest interior of any Christian church and can hold 60,000 people. Below is the burial site of Saint Peter, one of the twelve apostles of Jesus.
It is not a cathedral, the Cathedral of Rome is on the other side of the City, we visited there in 2007.
The dome rises to a height of 136.5 metres above the floor and is the tallest dome in the world. It is just a bit smaller than the dome on the Pantheon and the Cathedral in Florence. Originally designed by Michaelangelo, it was finished with some alteration in design in 1590, after his death. When you look up, the letters around the base of the dome are each 6 and a half feet high and read: ...you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church. ... I will give you the keys of the kingdom of heaven.
Basilica of St. John Lateran
While St. Peter's Basilica is the big draw in terms of churches in Rome, St. John Lateran should not be overlooked. Although the basilica is located outside the boundary of the Vatican City and is located within Rome, it has a special status as property of the Holy See. This is the cathedral of the Bishop of Rome and contains the papal throne and as such it ranks above other Roman Catholic Churches, including St. Peter's Basilica.
The structure is built on the remains of a structure from Roman times, and the Lateran Palace changed changes a number of times, eventually being converted as well as enlarged to become the cathedral of Rome, the official seat of the popes as bishops of Rome.
A Benedictine Monastery was established and the remaining cloisters are very scenic. We very much enjoyed walking about the cloisters. The cloisters, date to the 13th century and show Romanesque and Gothic style. (See Travels to Cloisters)
There were some fires and over the hundreds of years some decline in the building. When the Popes returned to Rome from Avignon, France they concluded that the basilica was no no longer appropriate and resided in other locations in rome until moving to Palace of the Vatican.
Inside the basilica, along both sides, are sculptures of the apostles. Although the space for the sculptures was part of the original design, they were only added in 1703 by Pope Clement XI. They are massive and tower above you as you walk or sit in one of the chairs.
We did not, but you could climb the Scala Sancta, the Holy Stairs, moved from Jerusalem in 326 A.D, .that Jesus Christ climbed in Jerusalem during his trial. Wood covers the 28 marble stairs and you have to go up the stairs on your knees. If that is not for you, there are other staircases open to the public.
The Baptistery is outside (northeast) the Cathedral connected by a covered walkway. Eight columns topped by marble Corinthian capitals are inside along with mosaics from the 5th century. The large octagonal basin was used for full immersions during baptism.
Take the Metro, Line A, to the San Giovanni Station.
Colosseum
We remember our earlier stays in Rome when we could just walk up to and into the Colosseum. There were no ticket gates or lineups. Now it is all very different.
Today you buy tickets, wait in lines, follow a set route to walk the various levels of the Colosseum.
This was the largest Roman amphitheatre built and it dates from 70 or 72 AD being completed in 80 AD. It could hold some 50,000. It still stands despite the work of those who stole it stones and the damage due to earthquakes. The most damage by earthquakes occurred in 1349 when a large portion of the south wall collapsed. Stones were taken and used for buildings in Rome. Not only where stones removed, but the bronze clamps that held the stonework were removed and today the building has the pockmarks of the former clamps.
It is also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre. Vespasian lived to see three levels of the Colosseum built, with the top level completed by his don Titus in 80 AD.
I must admit, my visit to the Colosseum in 2009, with the tickets, a 20 minute wait to get in, and the crowds inside was not a moving as some of our previous visits, it is still one of the must-see structures of Rome. Despite the people, find a spot where you can be alone for a moment and look out at the inside structure. It is very impressive.
In 2007 the Colosseum was added to the one of the the lists of New Seven Wonders of the World.
Hotel Raphael - Piazza Navona
Just off the north end of the Piazza Navona is a new tradition, to go to the roof-top patio and enjoy a drink with some great views of Rome.
Not cheap by any means, but very relaxing. We have not yet eaten a full meal - we have drank and eaten a fair amount just enjoying an afternoon break - on the roof top patio but it certain looks charming and is on out list of things to do!
Basilica San Paolo fuori le Mura
This is an impressive basicilia with a rich history.
We specifically went to see the cloisters which were built between 1220 and 1241.
The San Paolo is easy to get to. Just take the Metro and get off at the San Paolo stop. More information on the cloisters and the bascilica is on the Travels to Cloisters web site.
Piazza del Popolo
Although the name may indicate this is the piazza of the people, it is more as the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located in the northeast corner of the piazza.
In Roman days, this was the start of the Via Flaminia, the road to what is now Rimini on the east coast, to the north. The ancient via Flaminia was one of the most important roads into Rome, so this is where many would have entered the city. On the north side of the piazza is the Porta del Popolo. The gate, or port, was built in 1562 (Pope Pius IV).
The piazza you vist today was designed in 1811 to 1822
The Egyptian Obelisk of Sety, the second oldest, and tallest in Rome, is from Heliopolis and dates from the era of Ramese II and came to Rome in 10 BC. It was originally in the Circus Maximus and then moved to the Piazza (Pope Sixtus V).
The Trident is the reference to the three streets that branch out from the north of the piazza: in the centre, (1) via del Corso which was the ancient via Lata leads to Piazza Venezia, (2) via Ripetta goes past the Mausoleum of Augustus and leads to the Tiber River, the (3) Via del Babuino (named after a grotesque sculpture of Silenus - given the label the Baboon, leads to the Piazza di Spagna.
On both sides of via del Corso are the two churches: Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto (Pope Alexander VII). They look like they are mirrors of each other but they are both different sizes and shapes. Looking towards via del Corso, the Santa Maria, on the left, is smaller. Being smaller it has an oval dome while the Santa Maria dei Miracoli on the right has a circular dome.
The aqueduct Vergine Nuova (1820) brought water into the piazza for the fountains.
The area of Rome from the Piazza del Popolo up to the Spanish Steps is one of the areas enjoyed by movie director Fellini. One of his favorite places was the Café Canova.
Piazza del Campidoglio
The Capitoline Hill is between the Forum and the Compus Martius. It is one of the seven hills of Rome. In the 16th Century, Capitolinus became Capitolino in Italian. Then an alternative name, Campidoglio became a much used term for the location.
Pictured above, outside the Plazzo Nuovo, are two statues: The Nile (Left) and the Tiber (Right). The Tiber statue was modificied later to add, tucked under the art, the small she-wolf with Romulus and Remus, the two famous indivdiuals of Roman history.
The two palaces face each other across the Piazza del Campidoglio. They are some of the oldest purblic galleries in the world, with their collections open to the public since 1734. The two palaces are connected with a walkway beneath the piazza so make sure you visit the two different buildings and collections.
In front of the Palazzo Senatoria is a copy of the statues of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. Go inside the museum to see the original. The popes worked on fortifyiung the Palazzo Senatorio. Wings were added to take attention away from the towers. In the 16th Century the the palace was given a more elegant appearance with the additional the the Michelangelo designed twin steps leading up to the entrance.
The pedestal on which the copy stands was designed by Michelangelo.
The whole piazza was redesigned as part of a celebration for a visit from Emperor Charles V after the 1527 Sack of Rome.
Here there are museums of great interest, along with with unforgettable views of Rome.
The Museo Palatino, one of the oldest, is very interesting, and the two museums are connected by an underground walkway, so don't only visit one and leave.
You get some of the best views of the ruins of the forum., because you are looking down.
The Vatican
The Vatican is one of the sights of Rome. It is on the lists of places to see by such travel sources as Lonely Planet or Fodors to be sure. We don't visit it everyone year mainly because of the crowds. It is always I can even remember the time when you could basically just walk up and go in. Then can intense security check-in gates and the crowds seem to be just getting larger and larger. But do go.
Whether visit the Basilica, the the tombs below, or the adjacent Vatican Museums give your self ample time. And remember, the entrance to the Vatican Museum is quite separate from that of the Basilica.
A little bit of France, in Rome, is the restaurant Le Carré Français, via Vittoria Colonna, Roma. Tel: +39.06.6476.0625. It is a patisserie, boulangerie, bistro, boucherie, epicerie, fromagerie and cave a vin. Very French. In the morning if I wanted to bring a good croissant home, I would stop here as it was very near the apartment we rent. We have also eaten dinner here and the good is good.