Latium - Lazio - Rome - Roma

Rome is like a second home. What is a typical day for us now, considering we have stayed in this city so many times? On one of days we have a standard walk that allows to to enjoy some of the top sights.

• The starting point of a day walk of course depends on where we are staying, but typically we make our way to the Trevi Fountain.
• We then leave on Via delle Muratte, which is an interesting and busy small street as it is on the way to the Patheon. But we turn on the second left at Via di Santa Maria in Via. This takes us through the Galleria Sciarra Colonna and then to the small street of Via di San Marcello.
• Tthere we visit with my friend Marco Parascenzo at Novelli Pen. We have a tradition with Marco to go to lunch at L'Archetto, on via dell'Archetto, 26 for a great pasta.
• From there we make our way back to the Via del Corso and we walk along Via di Pietra past the columns of the Temple of Hadrian at the Piazza di Pietra. We continue along Via dei Pastini. If we cut down to the Via dei Seminario that takes us by the Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola a Campo Marzio, the Sant'Ignazio. - go in and look up at the ceiling. These routes take us to the Pantheon.
• It is then a few more blocks, which takes us past the Sant'Eustachio as well as some pretty impressive government offices complete with police guards to the Piazza Navona.

So that is just one of our regular walks. There are other places we vist, and so many places to see in Rome, but this walk is one of our traditions.

Trevi Fountain

We have been returning to Rome ever since we were married and a trip to Rome always includes going to the Trevi Fountain, sitting on the ledge of the fountain and throwing a coin over our shoulder. The saying goes that this will ensure you will return to Rome. It must be working as we have been returning year after year.

The fountain is the end of the Acqua Vergine, an update on an ancient aqueduct that supplied water to Rome back in 19 BC. Pope Urban VIII in 1629 asked Gian Lorenzo Bernini to look as renovations to the fountain that originally stood here.

The Pope died, the Bernini project never was completed, and later the fountain we know today was designed by the artist Nicola Salvi, awarded the commission by Pope Clement XII. Work began in 1732. Salvi died in 1751 and the fountain was finished by Giuseppe Pannini in 1762.

Get ready for crowds when you visit the Trevi Fountain.

The fountain was used for a scene in Federico Fellini's La dolce vita, and it was turned off, and draped in black to honour the star, Marcello Mastroianni, on his death in 1996.

Temple of Hadrian

A walk by the Temple of Hadrian because it is on the route from the Trevi Fountain, Novelli Pen Store, and then the Piazza Navona. The temple was built in 145 and is now part of a building erected in the 17th Century - the Piazza di Pietra, the Piazza of Stone.

Along one of the walls are 11 of the Corinthian columns that were originally part of the external colonnade of the temple.

It is easy to walk aby the columns ofd the old temple, but stop and consider the age of what remains.

The "new" building was a papal palace and it is now a bank.

 

 

Galleria Sciarra Colonna

We walk through this galleria on our way to Novelli Pen to visit by friend Marco Parascenzo. Over the years we have always stopped in the galleria to admire the painting and decorations always wondering just what this building was about. For the past number of years it has been semi abandoned, and had an eerie feel. It was not until 2009 that I came across the history of this beautiful small galleria.

    

The family palace of Prince Maffeo Sciarra Colonna sits on what is now Via del Corso. The Prince also owned the land behind his family palace and in 1870 he decided to build a retail galleria.

It was a project of which he took personal interest. He thought that its central location, just off the Via del Corso, and in the very fashionable area, would be ideal for a shopping arcade. In Italy these are referred to galleria. Prince Sciarra Colonna also has the theatre Quirino, located in the same district, built.

There is beautiful solitude when you walk into this grand galleria. Nothing gone one, just a dream that never materalized.

He spared no expense for its decoration which was commissioned to the painter Giuseppe Cellini.

Architect Giulio De Angelis was responsible for the design of the galleria that includes a cast iron glassed canopy and elegant designs on of the supporting structures.

Every inch of the interior of the arcade is painted and decorated. There are large frescoes portrayed scenes of family life having a moral intent, long Latin inscriptions celebrated the virtues of motherhood -- “Little one Begins or child to know from the smile of the mother”.

There are also various coat of arms of the family (Colonna/Barberini) as well as the initials of Maffeo Sciarra on the interior walls.

The galleria, however, failed and this was coupled with the overall financial trouble of the Prince. He went broke and had to sell art collection and eventually not only the galleria but even his family palace.

Today the family palace, on Via del Croso is a bank. We have walked by it many times and until now, never knew the history of the Prince, or the beautify Galleria Sciarra Colonna just around the corner.

Sant'Ignazio

The church is dedicated to Ignatius of Loyola, the founder the of the Jesuit order located in Rome. The church was built in the period of 1626 to 1650.

Inside therre are impressive Corinthian pilasters, marble of various colours, stucco reliefs and lots of gilding. Andrea Pozzo painted much of the interior. The ceiling fresco is known as The Apotheose of S. Ignazio. The Trompe'loeil (a method of paintings that means to trick the eye, creates a three dimensional depth) painting across the ceiling is impressive.

The painted ceiling is one of the best examples of Trompe'loeil painting and is noted in most books on art.

As you move your eye around the edges you will see the four continents referenced: Europe, Asia, Africa and America.

There are enough chapels and naves, sculptures and a dome to make this chruch well worth a visit.

 

 

 

Pantheon

How many times can I go the Pantheon? I let you know when I reach my limit but in the many years we have stayed in Rome, it is still a location that fascinates me. Don't attempt to eat or buy a drink in one of the overly expensive cafes in the Piazza, just spend some time in the Pantheon itself.

Walk around the exterior walls of the Pantheon for glimpse of its grand achitecture.

Here is a structure that is meant to remain. It was built by Marcus Agrippa as a temple to the gods of Rome in 27 BC. Fires in Rome destroyed the building. Rebuilt by Domitian and then again struck by fire in 110 AD. In 126 AD by Emperor Hadrian rebuilt the structure.

The structure was consecrated as a church, and this saved the building from destruction, a fate of many ancient Roman buildings during the medieval period.

The external marble has been stripped but inside, the marble, although restored, is beautiful. It is a remarkable building, and there it stands, some 2,000 years and it still has the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world.

The oculus, the whole in the centre of the dome, is the only source of light for the interior and sunlight moves around the interior of the building like a sundial. The whole is always open and there is a drainage system under the floor for rainwater to leave the building.

Pope Urban VIII has the bronze ceiling of the portico melted down and used for work on the Castel Ant'Angelo among other locations.

The inside has the tombs on people that include painter Raphael, composer Corelli and architect Peruzzi as well as Vittoria Emanuelle II and Umberto I, two Kings of Italy.

 

Piazza Navona

The space was originally the ancient Roman Stadium of Domitian. A piece of the foundation can been seen in an excavation area long the outside. It was in the 15th century, when the City Market moved from the Campidoglio to the Piazza Navona that it became a high profile public space. The market was moved to the Campo de'Fiori in 1869.

It is a Baroque architectural delight. In the centre stands the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, the Fountain of the Four Rivers, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Along one side is the Sant'Agnese in Agone church designed by Francesco Borromini and Girolamo Rainaldi.

At the north end is the Fountain of Neptune, Rome, created by Giacomo della Porta. It was added in 1878 to make the overall piazza more balanced as there is also a fountain at the south end, La Fountana del Moro.

In 2005 we planned a group event, the Amalfi Event. The grand plan is that we would all enter the Piazza Navona, by a different entrance and meet at the fountain. Great plan. Unfortunately a serious rain storm hit Rome that evening and we all met, huddled under the canopies of the cafes and line the piazza and drank Prosecco for the evening!

 

Spanish Steps

I am not sure why we always return to the Spanish Steps but sure enough, at one point on a visit to Rome we are there!. Good to have some traditions.

We visit the Spanish Steps every year, and join the hundreds of others.

The steps are noted to be the longest and widest staircase in Europe. The 138 steps were built between 1723-1725.

Today think crowds. Everyime we walk over to the Steps they are jammed with tourists. You can hardly make your way up the steps. However, if you stay in the area, and walk over very early in the morning, then they do look good in the soft morning light and there is a peace about the place.

 

St Peter's Basilica

The line-ups to get into St. Peter's now make it an event to enter and enjoy this truly remarkable basilica.

We can remember of our first trips to Rome where we would just walk over to the Vatican, walk up the steps and into the Basilica. Now it is a little more complicated. Don't wear shorts or you will find yourself buying some "paper pants" to wear into the Basilica.

Be ready for line-ups, wear long pants no skimpy shorts or bare shoulders. An incredible visit.

The inside is massive. It is the largest interior of any Christian church and can hold 60,000 people. Below is the burial site of Saint Peter, one of the twelve apostles of Jesus.

It is not a cathedral, the Cathedral of Rome is on the other side of the City, we visited there in 2007.

The dome rises to a height of 136.5 metres above the floor and is the tallest dome in the world. It is just a bit smaller than the dome on the Pantheon and the Cathedral in Florence. Originally designed by Michaelangelo, it was finished with some alteration in design in 1590, after his death. When you look up, the letters around the base of the dome are each 6 and a half feet high and read: ...you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church. ... I will give you the keys of the kingdom of heaven.

 

Basilica of St. John Lateran

While St. Peter's Basilica is the big draw in terms of churches in Rome, St. John Lateran should not be overlooked. Although the basilica is located outside the boundary of the Vatican City and is located within Rome, it has a special status as property of the Holy See. This is the cathedral of the Bishop of Rome and contains the papal throne and as such it ranks above other Roman Catholic Churches, including St. Peter's Basilica.

The structure is built on the remains of a structure from Roman times, and the Lateran Palace changed changes a number of times, eventually being converted as well as enlarged to become the cathedral of Rome, the official seat of the popes as bishops of Rome.

A Benedictine Monastery was established and the remaining cloisters are very scenic. We very much enjoyed walking about the cloisters. The cloisters, date to the 13th century and show Romanesque and Gothic style. (See Travels to Cloisters)

Large, impressive, and the cloisters bring it you visit form walking through a large cathedral to a very personal experience.

There were some fires and over the hundreds of years some decline in the building. When the Popes returned to Rome from Avignon, France they concluded that the basilica was no no longer appropriate and resided in other locations in rome until moving to Palace of the Vatican.

Inside the basilica, along both sides, are sculptures of the apostles. Although the space for the sculptures was part of the original design, they were only added in 1703 by Pope Clement XI. They are massive and tower above you as you walk or sit in one of the chairs.

We did not, but you could climb the Scala Sancta, the Holy Stairs, moved from Jerusalem in 326 A.D, .that Jesus Christ climbed in Jerusalem during his trial. Wood covers the 28 marble stairs and you have to go up the stairs on your knees. If that is not for you, there are other staircases open to the public.

The Baptistery is outside (northeast) the Cathedral connected by a covered walkway. Eight columns topped by marble Corinthian capitals are inside along with mosaics from the 5th century. The large octagonal basin was used for full immersions during baptism.

Take the Metro, Line A, to the San Giovanni Station.

 

Colosseum

We remember our earlier stays in Rome when we could just walk up to and into the Colosseum. There were no ticket gates or lineups. Now it is all very different.

Today you buy tickets, wait in lines, follow a set route to walk the various levels of the Colosseum.

This was the largest Roman amphitheatre built and it dates from 70 or 72 AD being completed in 80 AD. It could hold some 50,000. It still stands despite the work of those who stole it stones and the damage due to earthquakes. The most damage by earthquakes occurred in 1349 when a large portion of the south wall collapsed. Stones were taken and used for buildings in Rome. Not only where stones removed, but the bronze clamps that held the stonework were removed and today the building has the pockmarks of the former clamps.

It is also known as the Flavian Amphitheatre. Vespasian lived to see three levels of the Colosseum built, with the top level completed by his don Titus in 80 AD.

I must admit, my visit to the Colosseum in 2009, with the tickets, a 20 minute wait to get in, and the crowds inside was not a moving as some of our previous visits, it is still one of the must-see structures of Rome. Despite the people, find a spot where you can be alone for a moment and look out at the inside structure. It is very impressive.

In 2007 the Colosseum was added to the one of the the lists of New Seven Wonders of the World.

Hotel Raphael - Piazzaa Navona

Just off the north end of the Piazza Navona is a new tradition, to go to the roof-top patio and enjoy a drink with some great views of Rome.

Not cheap by any means, but very relaxing. We have not yet eaten a full meal - we have drank and eaten a fair amount just enjoying an afternoon break - on the roof top patio but it certain looks charming and is on out list of things to do!

 

Basilica San Paolo fuori le Mura

This is an impressive basicilia with a rich history.

We specifically went to see the cloisters which were built between 1220 and 1241.

The San Paolo is easy to get to. Just take the Metro and get off at the San Paolo stop. More information on the cloisters and the bascilica is on the Travels to Cloisters web site.

Piazza del Popolo

Although the name may indicate this is the piazza of the people, it is more as the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo is located in the northeast corner of the piazza.

The Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto churches stand on either side of Via Del Corso, leaving the Piazza del Popolo towards the Via Venezia.

In Roman days, this was the start of the Via Flaminia, the road to what is now Rimini on the east coast, to the north. The ancient via Flaminia was one of the most important roads into Rome, so this is where many would have entered the city. On the north side of the piazza is the Porta del Popolo. The gate, or port, was built in 1562 (Pope Pius IV).

The piazza you vist today was designed in 1811 to 1822

The Egyptian Obelisk of Sety, the second oldest, and tallest in Rome, is from Heliopolis and dates from the era of Ramese II and came to Rome in 10 BC. It was originally in the Circus Maximus and then moved to the Piazza (Pope Sixtus V).

The Trident is the reference to the three streets that branch out from the north of the piazza: in the centre, (1) via del Corso which was the ancient via Lata leads to Piazza Venezia, (2) via Ripetta goes past the Mausoleum of Augustus and leads to the Tiber River, the (3) Via del Babuino (named after a grotesque sculpture of Silenus - given the label the Baboon, leads to the Piazza di Spagna.

On both sides of via del Corso are the two churches: Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto (Pope Alexander VII). They look like they are mirrors of each other but they are both different sizes and shapes. Looking towards via del Corso, the Santa Maria, on the left, is smaller. Being smaller it has an oval dome while the Santa Maria dei Miracoli on the right has a circular dome.

The aqueduct Vergine Nuova (1820) brought water into the piazza for the fountains.

The area of Rome from the Piazza del Popolo up to the Spanish Steps is one of the areas enjoyed by movie director Fellini. One of his favorite places was the Café Canova.

Piazza del Campidoglio

The two palaces face each other across the Piazza del Campidoglio. They are some of the oldest purblic galleries in the world, with their collections open to the public since 1734. The two palaces are connected with a walkway beneath the piazza so make sure you visit the two different buildings and collections.