Umbria
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Umbria is the only region in Italy that does not board on the sea or another country. It is a beautiful region, plenty of medieval hill-top towns, scenery and food to make a vacation memorable. The "top sights" that folks seek out tend to be Perugia, Assisi, Orvieto, Gubbio and Spoleto. They are all worth a visit we have enjoyed them all. But of course there is more top see and places like Todi, Deruta to name just two. |
Travel Journal for: Amelia | Assisi | Perugia | Gubbio | Orvieto | Monterubiaglio | Todi | Foligno (Abbazia di Sassovivo)
Amelia
Amelia is one of the oldest cities in Umbria. King Ameroe founded the town, with the name Ameria and it was later occupied by the Etruscans, then the Romans. Numerous invasions took place with from the middle ages up to the unification of Italy in 1860 the town, now known as Amelia rules by the Roman Catholic Church within the Papal States. As with many towns, it is all about location, and Amelia was on what was known as the Byzantine Way, the route connecting Rome to Ravenna.
A walled town, the the large impressive gate is one of the first things you see as you approach the old town centre. These walls are 3.5 meters thick and there are four gates. The Porta Romana (see to the right) is the main entrance.
Old Amelia, inside the walls, is a well preserved medieval city. The architecture is interesting, although this is very limited commercial activity, so enjoy a walk up the various narrow streets. The centre is the Piazza del Duomo with the Cathedral and the 30-meter-high Torre Civica. The church, built in 872 was later rebuilt (1629) in the Baroque style and completed in the 1800's.
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| Narrow streets of Amelia. old doors and an authetic feel. | |||
There are a number of palaces that date from the 14th and 15th centuries that include the Palazzo Farrattini, Palazzo Petrignan and the Palazzo Venturelli. This is what brought us to Amelia, as we had the opportunity to stay at the Palazzo Venturelli. We have written about staying at the Palazzo Venturelli on our Great Places to Stay site.
Assisi
Our first visit to Assisi was back in 1994. I remember driving towards the town, it is visible from miles away. (You can take a train from Perugia but the station is 5 km away from the centre of town so you will have to use connecting buses.) This is a hill top town, there are three large car parks lots located below the city. Karen was impressed as the one we picked had a series of escalators that will take you up to the top of the hill. You will appreciate those on the hot sunny days in Umbria Most of the city is closed to traffic so you will be able to enjoy your walk about the town.
Assisi is known as the the place of the country's patron saint and known as Il Poverello, the Little Poor One. When we returned to Assisi as few years later, our friends were just as excited as visiting Assisi as the Vatican. It ranks right up there!
It was in Assisi that, in 1987 Pope Paul called together representatives of the world's religions to meet and pray together.
Assisi is busy much of the year by during Easter week there are processions that bring literally thousands to the town. The first ten days of May also hold the Calendimaggio which is a medieval May Day celebration that is quite popular.
Once on the top, narrow streets are lined with large old buildings and monks seem to be walking about everywhere.
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The Basilica St. Francisian is very impressive. Francis has asked to be buried on the Infernal Hill, located just outside the walls of the city. This was were the criminals were buried. After FRancis was canonized (1228) work became on the basilica and the hill was re-christened the Hill of Paradise. Pope Gregory IX laid the cornerstone of the basilica.
Our trip in 1994 was before the damage that occurred a few years later. When we returned in 2001 we were impressed. It was hard to see the damage. In the Lower Church there are frescoes everywhere all done by the masters from the 13th and 14th century. The lower level just hits you with details. Below this is another sub-level with another chapel and the remains of Saint Francisian.
Where the Lower Church impresses with it dark and frescoed-covered walls, the Upper Church is bright and quite airy. There are frescoes also, depicting the life of St. Francis.
Perugia
It was in 1995 that we visited Perugia. Losing our credit card while there turned our attention away from the sights to the task of getting a replacement; however, it is a city with an history.
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The town is complete with Etruscan walls, huge medieval buildings and soft pink stone in the cathedral. Go to the Piazza IV Novembre as that is the centre of the old town. There the Fontana Maggiore has sculptures by the famous Nocola and Giovanni Pisano. The cathedral dates from 1345-1490.
Some of the streets and walkways are actually under old vaulted archways. The archways were the supports for the fortress built in the 1500 for one of the popes: the Rocca Paolina. The palace is no more as In the 1800's papal rule ended and in a revolt the people destroyed the fortress..
Gubbio
This is actually one of the most-visited hill top towns in Umbria. We went there initially as it is known for its ceramics.
Although quite the tourist destination, there is more to see than ceramics. There is a well-preserved roman amphitheater date dates back to 1 AD. You will enjoy the sights and feeling of the town. Many of the old buildings date back to the 13th Century. The Palazzo dei Consoil dates from the 14th Century is the beautiful town hall.
Orvieto
Sitting high on a crag of tufa, you will always be impressed with Orvieto. We have already enjoyed our visits to this town.
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| Orvieto sits high on a crag of tufa | The impressive cathedral in Orvieto. This is considered one of the masterpieces of Italian Gothic architecture. | Incredible detail of the Duomo in Orvieto. |
Because of its location, the Etruscans settled here and originally called it Volsinii. It was one of 12 prime Etruscan cities. But in 280 BC the Romans pretty much wiped out the town and the Etruscans created a new town called Volsinii on the shores of Lake Bolsano During the Middle Ages, Popes would retreat from Rome to Orvieto, as they did to Viterbo, because of the safety the location offered. Of course, those are the types of residents towns like as it typically meant grand development.
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| Orvieto has a great look. | Intense colours of the cathedral. | It glows when the evening sun hits the cathedral |
The cathedral is considered one of the best in Italy. The façade is breathtaking. Designed by Morenzo Maitani of Siena. The colours are intense. In the evening when the setting sun hits the church which sits high on the hill, the church literally glows. Maitani worked on the remarkable bas-reliefs on the lower pillars that tell the story from the Creation to the Last Judgment. It is called a Bible in Stone.
In the chapels are great treasures. Facing the alter, on your right is The Cappella della Madonna di San Brizio has fine frescos. Well work the specific admission charge. You buy your tickets at the tourist office across the piazza. On your left is the Chapel of the Corporale. It has frescos with scenes from the miracle of Bolsena The cloth, the famous cloth taken to the cathedral is only shown during the processions during the feast of Corpus Christi.
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| Glenn Marcus cooking with Velia de Angelis at her kitchen in Monterubiagio. Information on the range of cooking classes offer is found at www.veliascookingstyle.com | Colour religious festivals in Orvieto. | Stunning stonework on the exterior of the cathedral. |
Monterubiaglio
Monterubiaglio is a small town, once belonging to the powerful Monaldeschi family. Now it is just another small village located about 10 km north west of Orvieto. Our recent visit to this town was to join Velia de Angelis at her kitchen in Monterubiaglio. Velia, offers cooking courses (see her web site www.veliascookingstyle.com) and this was an enjoyable experience to get hands-on cooking experience with Veilia. She opened her first cooking school in Montepertuso/Positano in 2001.
The parish church has a beautiful 16‑17c wooden statue of the Madonna, which we were able to see as part of their Festival of Assumption.
We also have the pleasure of meeting Gianluca who is in the planning stages of opening up an a champagne bar - Champagneria Orvieto.
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Monterubiagio is one of the small hill-top towns scattered across Italy. Not a tourist detination. This is a town of 600 people. |
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Cooking with Velia de Angelis at her kitchen in Monterubiagio. Information on the range of cooking classes offer is found at www.veliascookingstyle.com Velia's cooking style |
In her Monterubiaglio house, Velia de Angelis has a great kitchen for hands-on cooking experience. | Gianluca Antoniella, previous food and beverage manager for a major hotel in Positano on the Amalfi Coast knows his wine and champagne. He is in the planning stages of opening an exciting champagne bar in Orvieto -- Champagneria - Orvieto ... so here is another reason to return! |
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| For the festival the streets are lined with flowers. | The parish church has a beautiful 16‑17c wooden statue of the Madonna, which we were able to see as part of their Festival of Assumption. | Gianluca really knows his wine! We can't wait to return to visit the Champagneria Orvieto. |
Todi
We have been to Todi a couple of times, each time enjoying the town. The church is stunning. The town is full of impressive buildings. Walk up the streets and stop and enjoy some of the good food along the way.
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| Tempio della Consolazione - Todi | Interior Tempio della Consolazione - Todi | Interior of the Duomo in Todi. The painting on the back interior wall is of the Last Judgment by Farraù da Faenza. |
If you drive from Orvieto, you will approach Todi from the South West. This gives you a great view of the Tempio della Consolazione which is considered one of the most perfect Renaissance churches in Italy. It was designed in 1508 and not finished for an incredible 99 years later. Inside is a bright interior with Baroque statues of the twelve apostles.
Leave your car in one of the parking lots and walk up towards the Piazza del Popolo. There you will find the Duomo with its rather harsh square appearance. Walk up the steps and go inside. There is a great rose window and the back wall has a 16th century version of the Last Judgment that was painted by Farraù da Faenza.
Visit the San Fortunato, it was built in 1292 located on a hill in town atop a broad stairway. It holds one of the greatest works of art in Todi, a fresco by Masoliono of the Madonna nd Child.
At the very top of Todd is the ruins of the 14th-century citadel There is a public park and a view out over the valley and the Tempio della Consolzione.
Abbaye di Sassovivo
Located around 6 km south west of the town of Foligno is the stunning Abbazia di Sassovivo. See Cloisters.































