Latium
is the Region that includes Rome and the Roman Campagna. On many of our first
trips to Italy we found ourselves racing through this area, all in a hurry
to get to Rome, or to get someone else. Big mistake. The Region has a
variety, from coastline to inland lakes formed from craters to dry rolling
hills. There is also a wealth of monuments from ancient times.
- Pompei - Week Three of Italy 2001
Viterbo was a papal palace for a short period of time.
From about 1257-1280 this was where city of the popes before they moved back
from Avignon in France, to Rome. As you will find from traveling in Italy.
To be a town that is associated with a pope, such as Pienza in Tuscany,
meant grand grand architecture and city design.
Viterbo is one of the most attractive cities in Italy. There are superb medieval squares, fountains, churches and loggia with interlaced arches.
The medieval section is an almost intact 13th-century quarter. There are enough towers,
homes, elevated walkways, stairs and windows to keep your camera shutter a clickin!
Of course we broke a cardinal rule... don't arrive in a town anytime adjacent to the 12:30 rush hour. We did and it was a made traffic jam as most of the town seemed to be going somewhere. In the end it allowed us to walk around the time for a few hours with the city to ourselves.
Of course you can not be in Italy without being either very close to or sometimes it seems in a wedding. Viterbo was no exception. The train of the bride's dress flowed across the cobblestone streets. So the visit was finished with a nice lunch -- great olive oil on the pasta, good wine. What more would we want.
We drove down and past Rome, staying in Nemi, a small town on one of the crater-lakes so that we could plan our visit for the rest of the Region. Our meal at the Trattoria Pizzeria Forna a Legna was great. Makes you never want to order Bruchetta in Canada again! Of course a wedding was in the hotel and the party went on to the wee-hours of the morning. Its Italy!
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Villa Lante is Just outside of Viterbro, off the S204 is the Villa Lante. It is like a scaled down Villa d'Este. A villa, not much open to the public, but a wonder classic Italian garden complete with a water segment of fountains, fountains and more fountains. It is very relaxed. We met some artists from Canada painting. Admission is only a few bucks and you enjoy a hour or so to walk around the grounds. |
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 The
Villa Lante, and it not the only one in Italy with this name, is
named after the Lante della Rovere family, who owned the estate for
three centuries until 1933. The
villa has two separate buildings
built by two cardinals. |
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Civita di Bagnoregio Heading north, just before you leave the Latium Region, make sure you stop by Civita di Bagnoregio, "la citta che muore" - a small town perched high on a small outcrop of volcanic stone like an island surrounded by a vast eroded valley. When founded about 2,500 years ago, it was easier to reach. The town has been continuously inhabited ever since the Etruscans.
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The majority of the buildings are houses. |
We think you are going to really like this
visit. You leave your car the the parking lot, cross a foot bridge
to climb to the top of the hill. It really is like stepping back
in time. We stopped and had brucceta made over an open fire with
some great home-made wine.| Rome
We have adopted Rome as one of our second home. We have had numerous trips to this city. We think we could live in Rome and enjoy it. One some trips we stayed outside the city and took the bus into the city each day. I would rather not do that again. |
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On other trips we stayed outside in towns such as Trivoli and took the train in. That was okay. As long as you keep the trip down to a half an hour or so and you are on a main line there will be a train every half hour or so. Recently we have gotten braver and have driven our car right into the city. That has had it high and low moments. But regardless, you have to visit the city more than once. Get the main tourist must-see's done and then you can really start to enjoyr the city. We can walk right to one of my favorite pen stores, visit a restaurant or just walk the streets and enjoy being there. Staying in Tivoli and took the train into Rome (just under an hour) When you purchase your ticket ask for the train and metro combination. Its a good bargain. There three main attractions of Tivoli include the Villa d'Este, the Villa of Hardian and the Gregoriana. There are numerous towns all within a 30 minute or so ride. In Tivoli we stayed at the Torre Sant ' Angelo, a classy hotel that while elegant, just seemed to be more concerned about hold weddings than looking after their guest. No use looking at the wonderful pool if you can't get near it because there is a reception being held on the pool deck. The Sunday we stayed there the hotel was hosting three different weddings! |
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Now, when taking the trains in Italy, read the schedule, remember the track (binario) and then get on the train when it arrives. You will never be able to understand any of the announcements over the public address system. They run them through a filter so they are totally incomprehensible. One year we actually watched our train arrive and leave because we though we had heard something in the announcement. We have never been to the Piazza Navona too many times. Just go and enjoy the piazza, the people and the fountains. The Trevi fountain is another spot, far too crowded with tourists but brave the crowds. |
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The Colossem is no longer free. It is part of a ticket price for the Forum. Walk the streets and find some of the smaller local restaurants. We had a great lunch at Trattoria Da Ugo; via dei Pretelti, 19. Run by a family. Good house wine, and the ravioli, salad, wine and water came to 50,000L (June 2000). |
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Villa d'Este
Not far from Rome is the Villa d'Este, an impressive villa and garden estate. Built in 1550 by Cardinal Ippolito d'Este the estate has elaborate gardens that terrace down a hill side with hundreds of water fountains.
When you first arrive, you are able to walk through some of the apartments. They are beautifully painted - every inch of the wall and ceiling. There are some very nice 16C Roman school frescos. But it really the gardens you want to see.
You walk down the staircase to the fontana del Bicchierone designed by Berini and the viale delle 100 fontaine, the avenue of a Hundred Fountains. At the end is an impressive oval fountain dominated by a statue of Sibuyl. At the end of the garden is the multi-breast Nature Fountain with the state of Diana of Ephesus.
We shot more photos that we should. But we were just taken over by the grounds. There is a small cafe on the patio and the food was very reasonable and okay.
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Villa Adrianna
Not far is your next stop, 6 km from Tivoli, 28 km from Rome. The Villa Adriana (Hadriana's Villa) - are the ruins of a grand Roman estate. It is an archeological park. Ruins combine with the site. It was sacked in the middle ages. It opens about 9:00 am and closed about 1 hour before sunset. Plan you time as it is closed on Mondays. |
| As you walk the ruins there are reproductions or souvenirs of the monuments and places Hadrian had admired through his travels. He reigned 21 years as a Roman Emperor. |
Karen and Glenn Marcus travel extensively throughout France and Italy. We would enjoy hearing from you. Karen and Glenn Marcus