Provence
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There is quite a variety within Provence. Whether it is the starkness of the mountains. The plateau area of horses in the Camarague or the blue water and palm trees of the Côte d'Azur there is variety. Our travels in this area started with Air Canada used to fly into Nice, however, how we have found air fare between London or Paris and Nice to be cheap and Nice has been a great starting point for many trips to France and Italy.
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Avignon
Like
many, on our first trip to the South of France, Avignon was on the list
of sites to see. I had travelled there myself a number of years ago. The
TGV makes getting from Paris to Avignon an easy trip. And, for our honeymoon
trip, it was a natural.
With history rooted in ancient Greek and Roman times, Avignon became the City of the Popes in 1229. This established the City as one of the places to be and it became a commercial anchor for the area. Artists and artisans invade the city and today we still can see the paintings, architecture, and sculptures that are remarkably well perserved. The town is surrounded by walls and deserves the better part of day.
It
was the work of the pontiffs Benedict VII and Clement VI
for that built the Palais des Papes. The Palais is an example
of 14th Century Gothic architecture . Benedict was a Cistercian monk,
and the architecture of the north part, was is known as Palais Vieux,
illustrates the Cistercian style of simplicity and austerity. The sections
to the South, known as the Palais Neuf, are more Gothic in nature and
have vaulting rather than plainer wooden ceilings. The Popes made Avignon
their residence for almost a century (1309-1403).. The palaces were actually
built in pairs: one palace at Avignon and another at Villeneuve. This
allowed a retreat from from the stresses of the Papal court. The cardinals
arriving in the 14th Century could not find residences in Avignon and
began to build magnificent residences across the river in Villeneuve.
At one there there were 15 residences. Although these stayed for much
time, the Revolution changed much. Now, Villeneuve is a quite town and
one with a great evening view of Avignon.
We have now had three visits to Avignon, with
the most recent in 2002. Its
a pleasant town to either visit the Palais and churches or just walk
the streets and enjoy the atmosphere.
Aix-en-Provence
Cours Mirabeau |
Fountain of the Three Ormeaux |
Cloisters in Aix |
Oh yes, our honeymoon trip. We can now look back and know that travels while enjoyable can and do bring out stress levels. On our first trip here, while driving the famous Cours Mirabeau, which for Centuries has been the main street of Aix-en-Provence, that the stress of finding a place to stay, driving in heavy traffic and far too long in one day, peaked. At the highlight my wife got out of the car and left me sitting in the traffic. Needless to say, we did unite, we did find a very nice hotel to stay in, had a good meal in Aix-en-Provence, and together, have travelled through France many many times.
In the old part of Aix is the never-to-be-forgotten Cours Mirabeau the broad street built in the 17th century - enjoy a shaded walk as the street is lined with its plane-trees, and ancient town houses. The old "hotels" have carved doors and wrought iron balconies... bring lots of film.
All around old Aix are numerous fountains and cafés.The Town Hall and Tapestry Museum are of interest.
Aix, with some 16 or 17 fountains is a pleasant town to walk. The St. Sauveur catherdral and cloister are not to missed. The cloister dates from the 12th Century and the walk through those cloisters, has established cloisters to be one of the must-see sights of all out travels in France and Italy and even the foundation for a web site to highlight our visits to various cloisters.
Arles
An
Arles we discovered we really did not like bull fights. Impressive to
see, and they are in the ancient arena, but by the end of tormenting
of the poor bull, it was enough for both of us. The arena , dates back
to AD80 and can seat 25,000. When you hear about
the history it strikes you just how old these structures really are
and the fact that they remain a remarkable thing. In the medieval times
some 200 homes were build inside the area including a church!
The St-Trophime Catherdral is of note and the Cloisters are the most famous ones in Provence. the Romanesque construction took place in the 12th century and the Gothic galleries to the south and north were build in the 14th centuries. We are heading back in 2004.
Ardèche Gorges
A
fascinating drive along the Ardèche River from Vallon-Pont-D'Arc
to Point-St-Esprit. The drive is about 60 km and one should allow a good
day to make that distance. This is one winding road with plenty of photo-stops
along the way. The river has a good grade change and there are numerous
locations for canoe/kyak rentals for trips down through the endless
series of rapids. We enjoyed ours, complete the dumps!
The rentals run from early March to late November but the best time,
when the level of the water is lower and the amount of water travelling
through the gorges is less is between mid may and June.
Of course the Pon'd'Arc is a photo stop. The river flows under the natural arch. As the river makes it way, in some places the gorge walls over all 300 meters high.
In La Haute Corniche there are great views of the gorges.
Cagnes-Sur-Mer
We
have found Haut de Cagnes, the old city at the top of the hill to be
the area of see. We have had two visit to Haut-Cagnes, staying once in
the Cagnard which is built into the walls of the old Grimaldi Castle.
We could only afford the smallest room they had - it was fine - and out
meal was outstanding. One of those meals you just never forgot and we
returned in 2001 with our friends
to enjoy yet another remarkable meal at Le Cagnard.
The medieval quarter is small but has just what you would expect: tiny streets, stairs, little restaurants and old houses -- all quite enjoyable.
Cannes, Cassis
I think you have to go to Cannes because it is there and just so well known. The Boulevard Croisette with the famous hotels, the beach, the "scene" is enjoyable. Cassis is on the itinerary for our 2004 visit.
L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Our
visit to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue was ill-timed. In the night we had our broken
into and most of our luggage and, worst of all, our film, stolen. It
was the first theft we had encountered on our travels in France and we
took it bad! So our spirits were low when we visited this small town
that dates from medieval times. It is built on a network of islands
created by five branches of the Sorgue river. Enjoyable and worth a visit.
It is located just 7 km from the source of the Sorgue River, La Fontaine-de-Vaucluse.
We are not sure if it was the mood of the day, but the latter was not
a location as Michelin rates, "worth the journey".
Gordes, Grasse
Hill top towns of the area. This is what Provence is about. Driving to the small in-land towns away from the high pressure and prices of the coast. Gordes is perched on the escarpment of the Vaucluse mountains. It unfortunately lost out to the bumped-out-post-break-in mood of the trip that year. We will return and give it another chance. Grasse is known for its flowers and it is the hub of the perfume industry.
More Provence...
Karen and Glenn Marcus travel extensively throughout France and Italy. We would enjoy hearing from you.