Tuscany

Italia and Tuscanna When you tell someone you have been to Italy, often the first question is: What did you think of Tuscany? Although there is so much to see that is to different across the country, Italy and Tuscany seen to be combined in the minds of many. This is one of Italy's world famous regions. You will find eye-catching landscapes -- green hills, lunar like appearances near Siena, golden browns, mountains and the sea. There are endless towns, museums, cathedrals, buildings, streets to fill up many vacations. All around are ancient Etruscan and Roman ruins. Bring lots of film!

Firenze, Florence For many a trip to Italy is a trip to Florence. We have visited Florence numerous times, sometimes staying in the city and other times outside. When staying outside you leave the city at the end of the day just exhaused from the walking to arrive back at much more peaceful country setting. It has its advantages. You do, howver, miss the great evenings walks picking up great gelato along the way. The crowds will tire you but the sights will inspire. Once year we stayed in Pistoia and took the train into Florence. In theory it should have been simple. The train schedule and performance, however, meant we missed a good part of the day travelling. Mind you, we found some of the best gelto in Italy in Pistoia and the town has a number of sights. On other trips, Florence has benn a day visit with us braving the drive into the town, finding a place to park the car (difficult and expensive), enjoying the city and then leaving. Read parking signs very carefully. Having your car towed in Florence is an experience not to be repeated. But when you arrive at the very large "holding lot" you will find that you are just one of the many

When we stayed in city, be prepared to pay a hefty price for a room, and if the hotel is on any of the main streets it will be noisy. The payoff is that you can walk around in the evening, enjoy great ice cream and drinks and then return to your hotel. On one trip the Pensione Bretagne, Lungarno Corsini, 6 met our needs very nicely. No parking so if you arrive with a car it is a problem. We did not understand the directions or signs correctly so had the experience of finding out car after it had been towed from a lot in the night. Great way to see the city. Expensive also. But the Pensione Bretagne has some real "old world charme", has a breakfast room with a ceiling and views over the river that are right up there in your list of experiences. On another trip, we arrived in town with no reservations, had a horrible time looking for a place - impossible with a car and a real test of the marriage - and ended up staying at the Villa Fiesole, via Beato Angelico, 35; in Fiesole located 15 km out of town on the hill overlooking the city. It was very nice and I had problems paying the heavy bill. Well worth it. So there are the real two extremes.

No need to recit the sites to see. On your lists of musts make sure they include the Duomo, the Baptistry and the Cathedral Museum. The Uffizi now has a reservation system where you can book an entry time and that is well worth it. Endless lines to get in.There is also the Bargello. You will walk the Ponte Vecchio and we found that there were better deals on silver and gold in other locations around Italy. The churches are many but Santa Croce, Santa Maria Novella and Santa Maria del Carmine are ones of note... hard to say that and leave out others. Plan you day so that you get a good time in at the Accademia.

But, on every trip we have had a lunch or dinner at Ristorante Mamma Gina - it is a tradition for us and a restaurant you will sure to enjoy.

Volterra

Located about 80 km from Florence is the impressive town of Volterra. It is located high in the hills and is also known as the city of wind.

We have visited this town numerous times. Each time we enjoy our visit just as much as prior visit. There is a common, almost monochrome look to the town. You'll find yourself asking: how did they get the amount of stone used to build the town up here anyway? It is a town of narrow streets and large impressive stone buildings. If you are into photographing doors you will think you have hit pay-dirt with this town. The window ornaments are likewise very interesting.

If you have any interest in alabaster then you find more than enough stores selling alabaster carvings and the like.

The piazza dei Priori represents one of the finest medieval piazzas in Italy. Dating from the 1200s the three-storey building has a façade that is adorned with trilobed, double arched windows. The Della Robbia glazed terracotta coats of arms are of the various Florentine magistrates from the 15th and 16th centuries. The building also bears, engraved between the banner and torch holders, the canna volterrana, which is the the medieval standard measurement of the commune.

You will find Volterra to be one of those towns to talk, to enjoy. It has some fine museums, however, we have been taken with the feel of the place.

On our most recent trip to Voltera, in 2003, we had dinner at Da Beppino at via delle Prigioni 15/19 and found our meal to be great. Pasta with mushrooms, roast pork with roasted potatoes. The slivers of fresh Rosemary in the pork gave it a great taste. A litre of vino de cassa was just fine. The meal for two including dessert was very reasonable.

Just outside the Porta Florentina there is large Roman theatre and if you walk the road from the Porta S. Francesco you will pass along an Estruscan wall that extends for over 5 km. The cavea, of the Roman Theatre, served as a seating area for the audience. Nineteen rows of the central and lower cavea are still visible.

We stayed just outside of town at the Villa Nencini. It was fine and the villa had a pool which was a plus in the heat of the summer.

 

 

Montecatini Terme

Locate just 15 km west of Pistoia this is one of Italy's best-known spas. It was the location back in 1890 and what remains is a pleasant town with impressive sights to see.

We toured to this town in 2002. and there are more pictures and details about the town on that page.

We stayed at the Hotel Belvedere, vialle Fedeli, 10; getting a great room at a good price. The hotel staff were very friendly and helpful.

Montecatini is a choice for a place to stop while driving around Tuscany and there is more than enough to take up an afternoon and an evening in the town.

Lucca

Lucca is interesting and famous for its walls. Construction started in 1500. The city is entirely enclosed and you can walk along the top of walls looking out and into the city. A long history in this town. While depending on where you have just come from, it can seem to hold a slower pace than other cities, I can attest to the difficulty of trying to park a car, fine a tourist information office, or a hotel. At one time the city was one of the prime trading centres in the region. In fact, it used to be its own Republic. Oh, but the way, the tourist office is on Vecchia Porta San Donato, in Piazzael Verdi, near the bus station.

We stayed once, and felt that one evening in the town just was not enough. On subsequent trips, however, we have unable to get a hotel in the city and have ended up in other parts of Tuscany.

 

Pisa

Don't miss this jewel thinking it is a tourist stop. Well it is. The buses roll in and out. But the Campo dei Miracoli, or the Field of Miracles is just that.

I had worn shorts as the day was hot and was stopped at the door and unable to enter the cathedral. I asked Karen to stick her head in and tell me if it was worth it to hike back to the car and change into my pants. Wasn't that a stupid question but travel fatique had set it. Well of course she said "unbelieveable". It was worth the run back to the car. And in Italy, no one even looks at a man changing pants in a parking lot!

We were fortunate as this trip was the year before they closed the tower. We were able to make our way up the narrow winding, smelly staircase to the top. There I was surprised that one just walked out onto the top flow. There was only a single metal bar preventing a fall. Stunning.

Don't miss a good amount of time in the Cathedral and the Bapistry. The Bapistry in Pisa is the largest in Italy.

Siena

	If we had to pick one town as being the best in Tuscany, it is probably Siena, although Orvieto is tightly behind. We have been to Siena a number of times, always as a day visit driving in from some location in Tuscany. Depsite that it will be crowded as it is on the "must-see" list of towns for more tourists it is worth a journey. There are easy parking lots just outside the gates of the city. The streets are pleasant to walk about. There is an easy confortable feeling about the city. Yes there are crowds but the lack of traffic in the core -- too bad for Florence -- makes it all easier to take. You will want to climb the Torre di Mangia in the Palazzo Pubblico. You can book a ticket for a specific time period and that makes it easier to return and then get in.
	We have never timed our visits right to see the July 2nd or August 16st medieval festival that includes a horse race around the Campo. We have been there the day before or the day after but somehow have never seemed to get it right. Never mind, even if you visit the town the week before the main roads leading into the camp are covered with flags and it is quite the sight.

Our most recent visit was in 2001 and now, the floor of the Duomo is covered and parts of it are open for viewing in September. So that is when I would plan a visit to the city. You do not want to miss this as some of Sien's finest artists were commissioned to create beautiful inlaid marble scenes. They cover the entire area of the cathedral.

San Gimignano

You can't go to Tuscany without going to San Gimignano. I wouldn't advise it. We have been in this town at least four times and each time we enjoy it fully. Yes, unfortunately it has become a "day-trip" destination for many staying on other towns but it is worth the visit to spend some time in the town. Not only are there incredible sights but if you just have to pick up some gifts for folks back home, the main street has numerous leather shops that sell good quality products as prices lower than you will find in Florence. You will see the tall, square towers of San Gimignano many kilometers away as your drive the winding roads. It is quite the sight. Some history books indicate that back in the 13th century there were over 70 of these family fortresses. The Pescille, located just outside of the town is a wonderful place to stay. We think we have told too many people as getting it seems to be a problem. But anyone we have referred to the hotel always writes back saying how great it was.

The Collegiata is the biggest church in town and was built between 1466 and 1470. So it really dates back.

Montepulciano

	Another one of the "musts" on any tour of Tuscany. The Church of San Biagio was built in 158 and is located 1 km south of the town. Walk the long road up to the top. There is an magnificent plazzo at the top.

 

Karen and Glenn Marcus travel extensively throughout France and Italy. We would enjoy hearing from you.

Karen and Glenn Marcus