Naples

For many years I held a fear about going to Naples. Driving to Amalfi, I would make sure I selected a route that we not take me through or near Naples. Not sure what I thought would happen! And, although we have not driven in Naples, after a couple of visits, I find this to be one of the most colourest and exciting cities in Italy.

Yes, it has its crime and we remember walking down a busy street with our camers around our necks and one of the police pointed to their eye and then our camera. The message: watch your camera. So I would take normal caution, stay in the main areas but enjoy the city.

An old door into Naples.

Founded in the 8th Century it was a Greek colony and the name Neapolis means New City. Then part of the Roman Republic. It was later the capital of the Kingdom of Naples from 1282 to 1816. It was for a time in union with Sicility and it was the capital of the Two Sicilies.

Today it is a very big city, over a million, and despite the fact that I am over my fear of going there, it is a city that one must acknowledge as a very high level of crime and while there is much to see, and it should not be missed, be on your toes.

I would be leary about driving my car into Naples, parking it and thinking that I may come back to the car just the way I left it. People in Amalfi have told me I was being silly and thre is no concern to drive to Naples. Just drive into town, park the car and enjoy the day!

I am not at that point yet. The two times I have travelled to Naples have been either by boat or train. Great ways to get into and out of the city.

If you stay along the Amalfi Coast there are fast and slow boats that will take you into the harbour. You will get some great views. Or, you can catch a train and whisk into the Stazione Centrale on Piazza Garibaldi. The Stazione is not only where trains come but also the Circumvesuviana railway - a kind of above-ground subway that goes along the coast to other locations.

Some beautiful arcaded streets in Naples.

I have taken a but to Sorrento, and then the train to Naples and it easy an easy trip. There are other train stations along the way such as Napoli Mergellina or Napoli Campi Flegrel depending on how you come into the city, but go all the way to the Stazione Centralie.

One you walk outside the Stazione, well just keep walking. The city gets better and better as you get closer to the commercial centre.

The Galeria Umberto I is impressive. Built in 1887-1891 part of the risanamento - the rebuilding of Naples to make it healthy again!

Naples is a city to walk. There is so much activity - everyone is selling everything along the main street. On the street from sidewalk markets you can buy anything from small appliances to socks and underware.

Get up above the the city, and see Naples from the hills. Take one of the three finicolari, or inclined railways, up to the various sites. All of these will take you upto and near the San Martino Museum and the Castel Sant'Elmo.

• Funicolare Central - leaves from Via Toledo just behind the impressive Galleria. This is the longest funicolare in the world.
• Funicolare di Chiaia is not that far away, it leaves from the Piazza Amedeo in Chiaia.
• Funicolare di Montesanto goes from the Montesanto Station.

The Piazza del Plebisciot is in the centre of Naples. The San Francesco di Paolo is an impressive domed church. And across the piazza is the Royal Palace.

The Galeria Umberto I is a large impressive roofed arcade, ranked as being the largest in the world. Very impressive. Work on it started in 1887 about nine years after the Galleria Vittoria Emanuele was built in Milan. It was the part of the rebuilding of Naples that took place at the time. Called the risanamento, meaning making it healthy again. After a long period of decay, the Galeria is again the centre of life in Naples although at the times we have been in it, don't expect crushing crowds. Just walk through, admire the architecture and enjoy being there!.

Impressive interior of the Galeria Umberto I

The Castel Nuovo is on the harbour. It has geen there for 700 years and your will be drawn by the impressive gate that stands between the rather bland two towers. The gate is called the Triumphal Arch and some of the best sculptors in Italy came together to create it.

You will want to wal down Via Toledo from the Galleria. This is the main street in Naples.

The Santa Chiara is across from the Piazza Gesu Nuovo and it dates back to the 14th Century. It was heavily bombed in the Second World War. The Cloisters of the Clarisse, beside the church, give an idea of what of the former interior.

 

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