L'Aquila
On our 2005 trip we stayed in L'Aquila for a few nights. We found the town to be interesting and easy to walk about. Here is a town with a rich history. We were glad that we did not put off our visit to other years as it was in 2009 that an earthquake hit the town and many of the treasures of the city were damages.
Eathquakes are part of the history of this city. December 1315 damaged the San Franesco Church. About 800 died from the Januay 1349 quake. Other serious quakes were in 1452. 1461. 1501, 1646 and 1703. As a result of the 1703 quake over 3,000 people perished. Restoration work is underway and we look forward to going back to ee the progress. If that was not enough, again in 1786 6,000 died, in 1958 another hit the town.
We stopped here on our way from the Marches to Campania. L'Aquila is actually just 100 km north-east of Rome. The autostrade runs right through the mountain range so driving up to L'Aquila is easy, or taking a train is another options
Of course, visit one of the cafes on the Piazza Duomo for a great cappuccino.
Emperor Frederick II established L'Aquila in 1240 as a means of protection of his holdings from the Popes. To create L'Aquila he brought together people from 99 different villages. So there is a theme — 99. At one time there were 99 churches, 99 piazzas etc. He built, and it still remains, a fountain with 99 spouts - one to represent each of the 99 villages. Most of the churches and piazzas were destroyed by earthquakes but the Fontana delle 99 Cannelle is still there, and according to the tour books, the town hall bell chimes 99 times every evening, but I must admit I don't remember actually hearing that many chimes.
The advantage of keeping good friends paid off, as since the town was loyal to Queen Giovanna II, after a long drawn out attack in 1423, the Queen thanked the city by granting L'Aquila a range of privileges that made it the second ranking city, in what was then the Kingdom of Naples.
Plan to see the Basilica Santa Maria di Collemaggio (pictured to the left). It ust hits you when you walk down the long road that takes you to the grounds in front of the church.
The large rose window is encased with a delicate pattern of pink and white stone. The Basilica has an interesting history. A hermit, Pietro da Marrone, was elected Pope, and at the age of 80 in 1294 he started the building of the Basilica.
He took the name Pope Celestine V. He was, however, no match for the crafty politicians of the day and he was forced to abdicate. Pope Boniface VIII took over and viewed Celestine as a threat. Celestine was placed in prison until he died. His tombs lies inside the basilica.
While the exterior of the basilica is stunning when you enter the inside is a large, bare building. The previously rich interior has been stripped. The tomb of Celestine V is the main decoration left inside the Collemaggio. Visit the cloisters which are accessible from the exterior of the church.
The Forte Spagnolo is one of the largest structures in L'Aquila. It houses the Museo Nazionale d'Abruzzo.
Make time to view the museum. An interesting, easy to take collection is well worth your time. Kind of out of the theme of the majority of the works, there is the skeleton of a mammoth found near the town in the early 1950's.
We wanted to walk over and see the Fontanna Delle 99 Cannelle (pictured to the right) which is located well out of the centre of town.
Plan enough time as it is about a 20 minute walk and be prepared to go down, and back up, a hill. Do it in the morning before your feet are tired! The last sight of the day was a little hard!
The fountain was built in the 13th Century and the source of its constantly running water is not actually known. You can count the heads, I did not, but reports indicate there are only 93 heads and six regular spouts. They all add up 99. It is impressive and considering the age it is a sight that is worth the walk.
The original power of L'Aquila was based the relationship between L'Aquila the other villages. Each established the city as a federation, each building a borough and being part of the larger overall village. The fountain was named to celebrate the origin of the town.
We stayed at a hotel across from the Piazza Duomo, and this is a great location for walking about the city. The market takes place in the Piazza and the set up and take down is all part of the event.
In the middle of the Piazza is a fountain (pictured to the left).
When you walk from the Piazza Duomo and take Corso Vittorio Emanuele you will arrive at the Quattro Cantoni, the four corners, the city's main cross road.
Go to the left on Corso Umberto and arrive at the Piazza del Palazzo, and it has the Palazzo di Giustizi. The bell in the palace's town sounds 99 strokes every day at dusk.
If you leave the Quattro Cantoni along via San Bernardino you will find yourself at the San Bernardino, a masterpiece of architecture.